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adventerous arete beautiful bouldery classic confusing contrived crimpy dihedral dynamic exposed fingers fists fun hands juggy long offwidth pile pinches pockets pumpy runout scary shady sharp short slopey steep stout sunny technical vertical

There Goes the Neighborhood

This route is located in the Eastern Gorge Region at Funk Rock City

 Red Hot Chili Pepper

23.
+1
1 votes

Orange Juice 5.12c (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Hugh Loeffler in 1995
Length: 95ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route ascends the obvious, bright orange face about 40 feet right of There Goes the Neighborhood.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Rap anchors-60m rope required
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS: Clifty Wilderness Area
Steepness:
beautiful (2) sunny (2) crimpy (2) technical (2) classic (2) fun (1) dynamic (1) vertical (1) bouldery (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.9 stars (80 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12c (50 votes)

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Comments

31 comments {add your own comments}
1
t bone said on January 17th, 2003
great route one of my favorites!!
2
Power2U said on April 9th, 2003
One of the most esthetic lines at The Red, and a killer ride!
3
the lurkist said on November 19th, 2004
heh, heh, I beat Porter to the punch on this, barely.
4
rdpoints said on April 20th, 2005
Top 3 of the grade at the Red, probably my fav.!
5
eroktix said on September 19th, 2005
best 12c. ive done. climb on and have fun.
6
eroktix said on September 19th, 2005
best 12c. ive done. climb on and have fun.
7
One-Fall said on October 17th, 2005
Hugh, you rock. Fantastic route. Great boulder problems seperated my easier climbing and good rests. A MUST DO.
8
chouca said on November 4th, 2006
Onsight. One of the best and most entertaining face climbs I've ever done! And it keeps coming at you right until the end. Luckily there are enough good rests on the way. 6 stars on a 5 star scale!
9
the lurkist said on March 17th, 2007
historical note on funkrock. Neal Strickland, Dave Lutes and myself were developing FR. Then Porter got wind of it and showed up. Not that we cared if Porter would show up, but we knew he was capable of bolting the entire wall in a weekend. Hence "There Goes the Neighborhood" by Neal. Then, Porter responded with his route, "The Infidel". I was with Porter one day app 40 ft left of There Goes the Neighborhood" and we were both gazing up and spied the line that is now OJ. I knew that if I wanted this route, I better skip work the next day and get down there and do it. So I did. The next weekend Porter was back and visibly distraught to see bolts ascending OJ. I let him TR it. He flashed it, of course. I have never regretted snaking that route.
10
redpointron said on March 17th, 2007
great story hugh. i don't know pig anyone who could steak bolt an entire cliff in a weekend.
11
rrgclimber07 said on June 11th, 2007
since i heard about OJ ive wanted to climb it... it sounds like a beautiful route, i was just wondering about any key beta that might help...
12
512OW said on July 10th, 2007
Key beta? Don't fall.
13
dbarless said on October 2nd, 2007
kris you are effin hilarious
14
dbarless said on March 18th, 2008
got on OJ today, it is without a doubt the most perfect line in the red!!!!! great hard boulder problems separated by good rests and moderate climbing on incredibly high quality and beautiful stone!!!!! bring some power endurance for the send!
15
512OW said on March 24th, 2008
Power endurance?? There are maybe 3 hard moves on the whole route... whats the power endurance for?
16
MSMITH said on March 31st, 2008
Dave, You are a twat.
17
italianwrestler125 said on October 28th, 2008
fuckin amazing. nuff said.
18
Ryland said on May 7th, 2010
Maybe it was just the hot day, but this thing seemed kinda polished and the movement of the line really didn't feel all that amazing. It was fun, no doubt, but as far as technical 12c's go, I think demon seed or triple sec--even though it's a grade harder--are a million times better than this thing (and you don't have to trek through a creek to get there).
19
THB said on November 20th, 2011
No, Ryland, you are right... Triple Sec is 12c, but it's only a 3 star route on a 5 star scale whereas this one is most certainly a 5 star route! I can't weigh in on Demon Seed because I've never been on it... Hands down, this thing is one of the best routes of its grade on the east coast, maybe one of the best of its grade in the states...
20
aburgoon said on November 20th, 2011
except for the copperhead nest about 10 feet from the base...
21
allah said on November 20th, 2011
Everyone should leave the copperheads alone! Let them be its their home. Its sad that climbers feel the need to kill these snakes at the base of climbs, I was very upset when I heard about the nest at solar collector. If this nest is destroyed I and all the other snake lovers will be able to do something about it. Leave them alone and let them live their lives!
22
Baatzy said on November 20th, 2014
Stellar only begins to describe this climb. Bouldery face climbing at it's best, like a harder Abiyoyo with more cruxes and rests.
23
Anonymous said on December 8th, 2016
Everytime I walk by this climb I there is a line of climbers wanting to get on it. About 80% of those climbers have no business on this climb. They waste their own time and the time of other climbers who are capable of sending. If you are thinking about gettting on OJ just because it's a mega classic but have no business on it, walk away!
24
climb2core said on December 8th, 2016
Or, you could just get your ass up earlier and quit complaining. At least there isn't perma's on it.
25
Anonymous said on December 9th, 2016
Nice supersassyian. If you're waiting in line for OJ maybe try Appalachian Spring. Or go over to Soul Ram and punt on that.
26
Anonymous said on December 9th, 2016
Soul Ram isn't at Funk Rock.
27
Anonymous said on December 9th, 2016
Who is this anonymous fool (12.8 post) who thinks they can determine whether or not someone has business on a route? It's a 5 star 12c...get over it (and yourself) and let people climb what they want in peace.
28
Anonymous said on December 9th, 2016
yeah for sure, please don't have any crag etiquette, fuck everyone else, that's the peaceful way
29
Anonymous said on December 9th, 2016
seems like entitled whining to me. in general, i'd be careful about judging whether someone "belongs" on a route. i've seen people look super shaky on routes and send. i myself have bolt to bolted something first go and sent the next. should people whose hardest send is 12a climb the first few bolts of pure imagination in prime season? probably not. but someone struggling up a route could just as easily be interpreted as inspiring as opposed to annoying. original anonymous, are you really the person to draw the line for others?
30
Anonymous said on December 9th, 2016
Do you have to send to enjoy a route? Is a route bolted with the sole purpose to be sent? Is climbing an individual pursuit with different styles and desired outcomes among individuals? No. No. Yes.
31
bbllaakke said on December 9th, 2016
Regarding the "At least there aren't permas on it" comment. True there aren't climb tech permas on it, but I've been told someone has left their project draws up on this route, and Appalacian has had manky draws on it all late fall season. Should we really be leaving project draws up at Funk Rock? Isn't it Forest Service land? Also, lame to see fellow climbers determining who is and isn't capable of getting on a route. True it's frustrating to see a group of four toproping this route for half the day (common), but this is a special line that will inspire people to try something harder than they otherwise would.