redriverclimbing.com: red river gorge guide

great route one of my favorites!!

heh, heh, I beat Porter to the punch on this, barely.

best 12c. ive done. climb on and have fun.

Hugh, you rock. Fantastic route. Great boulder problems seperated my easier climbing and good rests. A MUST DO.

historical note on funkrock. Neal Strickland, Dave Lutes and myself were developing FR. Then Porter got wind of it and showed up. Not that we cared if Porter would show up, but we knew he was capable of bolting the entire wall in a weekend. Hence "There Goes the Neighborhood" by Neal. Then, Porter responded with his route, "The Infidel". I was with Porter one day app 40 ft left of There Goes the Neighborhood" and we were both gazing up and spied the line that is now OJ. I knew that if I wanted this route, I better skip work the next day and get down there and do it. So I did. The next weekend Porter was back and visibly distraught to see bolts ascending OJ. I let him TR it. He flashed it, of course. I have never regretted snaking that route.

since i heard about OJ ive wanted to climb it... it sounds like a beautiful route, i was just wondering about any key beta that might help...

kris you are effin hilarious

Power endurance?? There are maybe 3 hard moves on the whole route... whats the power endurance for?

fuckin amazing. nuff said.

No, Ryland, you are right... Triple Sec is 12c, but it's only a 3 star route on a 5 star scale whereas this one is most certainly a 5 star route! I can't weigh in on Demon Seed because I've never been on it... Hands down, this thing is one of the best routes of its grade on the east coast, maybe one of the best of its grade in the states...

Everyone should leave the copperheads alone! Let them be its their home. Its sad that climbers feel the need to kill these snakes at the base of climbs, I was very upset when I heard about the nest at solar collector. If this nest is destroyed I and all the other snake lovers will be able to do something about it. Leave them alone and let them live their lives!

Everytime I walk by this climb I there is a line of climbers wanting to get on it. About 80% of those climbers have no business on this climb. They waste their own time and the time of other climbers who are capable of sending. If you are thinking about gettting on OJ just because it's a mega classic but have no business on it, walk away!

Nice supersassyian. If you're waiting in line for OJ maybe try Appalachian Spring. Or go over to Soul Ram and punt on that.

Who is this anonymous fool (12.8 post) who thinks they can determine whether or not someone has business on a route? It's a 5 star 12c...get over it (and yourself) and let people climb what they want in peace.

seems like entitled whining to me. in general, i'd be careful about judging whether someone "belongs" on a route. i've seen people look super shaky on routes and send. i myself have bolt to bolted something first go and sent the next. should people whose hardest send is 12a climb the first few bolts of pure imagination in prime season? probably not. but someone struggling up a route could just as easily be interpreted as inspiring as opposed to annoying. original anonymous, are you really the person to draw the line for others?

Regarding the "At least there aren't permas on it" comment. True there aren't climb tech permas on it, but I've been told someone has left their project draws up on this route, and Appalacian has had manky draws on it all late fall season. Should we really be leaving project draws up at Funk Rock? Isn't it Forest Service land? Also, lame to see fellow climbers determining who is and isn't capable of getting on a route. True it's frustrating to see a group of four toproping this route for half the day (common), but this is a special line that will inspire people to try something harder than they otherwise would.