Orange Juice

This route is located in the Eastern Gorge Region at Funk Rock City

Headstone Surfer


24.
+0
0 votes

Red Hot Chili Pepper 5.10d (Mixed) ***

First Ascent: Neal Strickland, Tracy Crabtree in 1992
Length: 90ft
Bolts/Gear: 6/ (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk 30 feet right of Orange Juice to a left-facing dihedral with a large boulder at it's base. This route ascends the face left of the dihedral making use of bolts and cams for protection.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS: Clifty Wilderness Area
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.48 stars (31 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (30 votes)

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Comments

1
ray said on February 27th, 2005
Cool line. Bring a couple of small-medium sized cams to avoid grounding if you fall between the 1st and 2nd bolts. Runout about 20 feet at top but on good holds.
2
Wolf said on October 16th, 2006
Fun. It is spicy. Definitely bring some cams.
3
jrathfon said on October 18th, 2009
not R. why doesn't the guidebook just list mixed climbs... good cam after the 5.6 slab, EASY bolt clip, jugs, to 3 horizontals for gear! wierd face/mantle move, 3 ft to clip 2nd bolt, how is that R? maybe if yur a tosser, er, um, i mean spurt climber. aside from that, actually a fun route, will definitely lead it next time at funk rock. bring a single rack from green alien to #2 BD, and you can protect every 3ft of the non-bolted moves.
4
Jeff said on October 18th, 2009
Wow!!
5
Jeff said on March 22nd, 2011
Re bolted, stainless rap rings.
6
JR said on March 23rd, 2011
Did you "fix" the runout?
7
Jeff said on March 23rd, 2011
Not adding bolts to anything out there and have always liked RHCP for what it is. The only route I would consider adding a bolt to would be Smokin' Joe. As it is (to be safe) you have to stick clip the first bolt of that route after surmounting the sandy block. A fall from there might have you being carried out. Wouldn't even consider that without FA permission though. Anyone know Tim Cornette?