Orange Juice

This route is located in the Eastern Gorge Region at Funk Rock City

Headstone Surfer

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Red Hot Chili Pepper 5.10d (Mixed) ***

First Ascent: Neal Strickland, Tracy Crabtree in 1992
Length: 90ft
Bolts/Gear: 6/ (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk 30 feet right of Orange Juice to a left-facing dihedral with a large boulder at it's base. This route ascends the face left of the dihedral making use of bolts and cams for protection.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS: Clifty Wilderness Area

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Quality Consensus

3.53 stars (32 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (31 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005


ray said on February 27th, 2005
Cool line. Bring a couple of small-medium sized cams to avoid grounding if you fall between the 1st and 2nd bolts. Runout about 20 feet at top but on good holds.
Wolf said on October 16th, 2006
Fun. It is spicy. Definitely bring some cams.
jrathfon said on October 18th, 2009
not R. why doesn't the guidebook just list mixed climbs... good cam after the 5.6 slab, EASY bolt clip, jugs, to 3 horizontals for gear! wierd face/mantle move, 3 ft to clip 2nd bolt, how is that R? maybe if yur a tosser, er, um, i mean spurt climber. aside from that, actually a fun route, will definitely lead it next time at funk rock. bring a single rack from green alien to #2 BD, and you can protect every 3ft of the non-bolted moves.
Jeff said on October 18th, 2009
Jeff said on March 22nd, 2011
Re bolted, stainless rap rings.
JR said on March 23rd, 2011
Did you "fix" the runout?
Jeff said on March 23rd, 2011
Not adding bolts to anything out there and have always liked RHCP for what it is. The only route I would consider adding a bolt to would be Smokin' Joe. As it is (to be safe) you have to stick clip the first bolt of that route after surmounting the sandy block. A fall from there might have you being carried out. Wouldn't even consider that without FA permission though. Anyone know Tim Cornette?