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adventerous arete beautiful bouldery classic confusing contrived crimpy dihedral dynamic exposed fingers fists fun hands juggy long offwidth pile pinches pockets pumpy runout scary shady sharp short slopey steep stout sunny technical vertical

L'lle au ciel

This route is located in the Eastern Gorge Region at Funk Rock City

 Up Swift Creek Without a Paddle

28.
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Prime Directive 5.11b (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Dave Lutes, Neal Strickland in 1992
Length: 95ft
Bolts: 11 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Around the corner from Hardcore Jollies is this bolted route. Climb close to the arete to a roof about 75 feet up. Balance right at the roof then move back left to the bolt.
Moves: Technical
Descent: Rap anchors-60m rope required
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS: Clifty Wilderness Area
Steepness:

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4.74 stars (70 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (54 votes)

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Submitted by: Dman
Date: Feb 26th, 2009

Submitted by: Dman
Date: Feb 26th, 2009

Comments

21 comments {add your own comments}
1
said on August 9th, 2004
oh my lord this route is FUN! One day I am going to get it...
2
Anonymous said on August 24th, 2004
Awesome route,intense for 11b-at least as an OS.
3
Sco Bro said on May 23rd, 2005
This route chewed me up, spit me off and charged me a quicklink for my troubles.
4
Stewy911 said on May 24th, 2005
do u go right or left at the roof?
5
merrick said on October 31st, 2005
awesome route, great climbing, superheady, and aesthetically pleasing line...right then tip toe very carefully back to the left.
6
Anonymous said on May 9th, 2006
Harder than the other 11b's at this cliff - fun though
7
Wolf said on October 2nd, 2006
Looking up from the bottom, this is one of the most beautiful and inspiring lines in the Red, and the climbing does not disappoint. It is an intense 5-star. Classic. Masterpiece.
8
bhuff04 said on November 26th, 2007
Wildest climb I've been on at the Red. Super technical and hard read. I agree, 5 stars for certain.
9
der uber said on September 27th, 2008
one of the cooler technical lines I have been on. Such a neat transition the whole way, from the arete start, to the left side face climbing, and of course the moves right back around the corner. Looks intimidating, but it's all there, and the crux fall is ok.
10
Jrodan said on September 28th, 2008
It is also possible to start this route from the crack just to the left. Follow the 8 or 9 handcrack to a ledge, clip the fourth bolt of prime directive, and continue to the top.
11
mojohand said on October 6th, 2008
My favorite sport route @ the Red - awesome!
12
Dman said on February 26th, 2009
deffintly a classic felt a lil stiff for 11b but worth all the bush whackin to get all the way back there
13
pkananen said on February 26th, 2009
bushwhacking at Funk Rock?
14
Dman said on March 3rd, 2009
yep due to the recent ice storm and bad weather there are alot of trees down
15
dustonian said on October 26th, 2009
FUN!
16
CLIMBTRAD said on November 14th, 2011
This rig is primed and ready to go with new stainless steel glue ins. Please DO NOT LOWER THRUE BOLTS !! leave a bail biner if ya have to.
17
dustonian said on November 14th, 2011
awesome, thanks Patrick!!! what a great route.
18
Jeff said on November 14th, 2011
Thanks Patrick and crew for giving your time hanging and hammering on such a beautiful day!
19
Izzy said on June 22nd, 2012
Umm yeah, seemed crazy after the roof. I'm not an experienced 11 climber but none of the options up there seemed reasonable after hang-dogging for 5 minutes trying to figure it out. If anyone has the specific 11b beta, pm me, cuz I'd love to hear it.
20
dustonian said on June 22nd, 2012
go right
21
J-Ru said on October 13th, 2015
Although intimidating the moves out, up and back over for the crux are really cool and very balancy. At first it seems like there is nothing there... I whipped first go and it is alright, but I put a locker on the second go for peace of mind.