Prime Directive

This route is located in the Eastern Gorge Region at Funk Rock City


0 votes

Up Swift Creek Without a Paddle 5.9 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Neal Strickland, Hugh Loeffler in 1992
Length: 60ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This is the dihedral to the right of Prime Directive. Climb the crack to anchors beneath a roof.
Moves: Hands
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS: Clifty Wilderness Area
dihedral (1)
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Quality Consensus

3.89 stars (46 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9 (35 votes)

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Submitted by: rjackson
Date: Mar 9th, 2009


tonybubb said on June 18th, 2003
Fun climb and good jamming- should get more traffic than it does.
Jerry Bargo said on January 17th, 2004
Very sustained.
Myke Dronez said on July 8th, 2008
Great jamming to a pod and a pumpy run to the fixed gear anchor. Crack just stays dry in rain- go give it some love.
mojohand said on October 6th, 2008
Sweet, sweet layback
JR said on October 6th, 2008
Route neat, anchor NarNar. I think there is a boat anchor jammed in there with some truck chains and a seat belt.
jmwoodhouse86 said on November 6th, 2008
Definitely deserves more traffic than it gets. Fun climb, on the harder end of the 9 grade. I'd really like to put some more appropriate anchors on this route, and I see no reason why the line wouldn't fo free all the way to the top. I didn't have time to try it when I climbed this last, but it looks to me that a "second pitch" would definitely go, maybe in the hard 10 range? Has anyone tried this?? I can't believe it's not in the book. Anyone down for a proj?
Anonymous said on November 6th, 2008
It was climbed to the top years ago. I saw them do it, but cannot remember who at this time.
rjackson said on March 8th, 2009
A lay-back feast. Best if consumed before 60 degrees. If only it had bolted anchors...
dustonian said on October 26th, 2009
Seems like a bolted anchor on the "top" top of this route would be a sweet addition.
Jeff said on April 2nd, 2010
Fixed anchors 4-1-10. Will remove old boat anchor, logging chain, and machine parts soon if they will budge.
Jeff said on April 3rd, 2010
Oh yeah, nice shiny rap rings. Please rap. You know you know how!
Jeff said on May 8th, 2010
Thanks to whoever cleaned up the old anchors on this! This is a quality 9. It has cleaned up well and is great if you like to lay it back.
john e aragon said on September 11th, 2010
i could not get jams on this route, i guess my hands are too fat like the rest of me. Great lay backing, excellent pro. a bunch of pieces the same size would be nice on this route.
nychef77 said on April 16th, 2012
Great climb.
tele_climber said on May 14th, 2012
Super fun thin hands crack. Looks green but its solid with bomber placements. Gear Beta~ 1s and .75s the whole way. You can lay back, but its a super fun thin hands jamming crack. I cleaned 8 million spider webs off of it so go give it some love!
Sco Bro said on August 19th, 2012
This thing eats up BD 1's (close to overcam). If that's not a hand jam for you then lay it back. Fun climb. Enjoy the pod rest.
campby said on June 30th, 2015
If you have larger hands, good luck with jams on this route. Bomber hands are 2 for me, and it was just a battle lie back to the top. If you have small hands, or liebacking is your thing, then you'll probably like it. I didn't particularly enjoy it, but the climb just doesn't fit my style or hands. To each their own.