Up Swift Creek Without a Paddle

This route is located in the Eastern Gorge Region at Funk Rock City

Glory Be


30.
+1
1 votes

Snotrocket 5.12+ R (Trad) *****

First Ascent: Matt Massey in 2005
Length: 100ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Walk right from Up Swift Creek to locate this beautiful, thin dihedral which was recently freed. Free climbing technique required technical foot scumming, stemming, liebacking, and other weirdness. Take small gear and very large balls! It's the "Book of Hate" of the south.
FA: Hugh Loeffler, 1996 with aid.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Rap anchors-double ropes required
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS: Clifty Wilderness Area
Steepness:

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5 stars (3 votes)
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5.8+ (3 votes)

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Comments

1
Horatio Felacio said on May 15th, 2003
clean aid my ass. maybe with the love-tron
2
the lurkist said on November 19th, 2004
I did the FA. Anybody coming after doing it in better style likes donkey dicks covered in snot.
3
One-Fall said on September 25th, 2005
One of the most aesthetic lines I have ever seen. Great job, Matt.
4
Spragwa said on October 8th, 2006
my boyfriend likes to train with things covered in snot, heheheh
5
Anonymous said on December 7th, 2006
sent to the face hold about half way up the dihedral where the crack dissapears, looks as if you have to stem for a couple of feet until the crack gets big enough to acctually fit your tips in. Any advice or beta? the steming looks very hard possibly.
6
Ti-Bum said on February 13th, 2019
Anyone did that route recently? Is it possible to access the top of the cliff to fix a top-rope to practice the moves?
7
Ti-Bum said on April 18th, 2019
What an aesthetic and unique line!! Surely one of the best pitch I climbed anywhere in the world. The description in the topo is spot on, it definitely requires a good variety of moves and creativity. It will keep you on your toes until the last move! Great job from Matt Massey for the first ascent!! Easier with small fingers (like me) imo. P.S: I broke a hold high up on my first lead attempt, but it does not seem to change anything in the end.
8
Willy said on April 20th, 2019
strong work dude!
9
Anonymous said on June 8th, 2019
lame. you walked by your chance for glory at gyana mudra.