Diamond in the Rough

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Lady Slipper - Emerald City

Flying Monkeys


4.
+1
1 votes

Ruby Slippers 5.11a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Rob Turan, Jamie Baker in 1991
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route is to the left of Diamond in the Rough and begins just to the right of a large hueco.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
crimpy (1) technical (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.14 stars (59 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (57 votes)

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Submitted by: pschu7
Date: Mar 29th, 2010

Submitted by: ahab
Date: Oct 8th, 2009

Submitted by: ahab
Date: Oct 8th, 2009

Comments

1
tamara said on July 12th, 2005
This route is not an 11.
2
Anonymous said on August 23rd, 2005
After looking at your tick list, what the hell do you know!
3
J-Rock said on September 13th, 2005
Ha, that's funny. It cracks me up when people who have only climbed a few 11's proceed to tell others that "This route is not an 11".
4
Wes said on September 27th, 2005
Not an .11 to me as well. Easier then diamond in the rough for sure.
5
jlu said on November 22nd, 2005
I also thought it was easier than Diamond in the Rough... bolts are a little closer together (at least at the more technical parts). very fun with stretchy but solid holds all the way up
6
dbarless said on October 17th, 2007
More crimpy than Diamond, but the feet seem to come together a lot better. The thank god crimps don't come as often on this one either, so depending on the quality of your footwork this one could go .10d/.11a Either way, this thing is really, really good.
7
rjackson said on November 28th, 2009
The beginning is headier than its neighbor to the right. I thought this one had more thoughtful sequences also, so if you're solid at the grade you would think it was easier. Nice climb.
8
Willy said on September 27th, 2012
Thought this one and DITR felt pretty much the same. I'd give them both 10d
9
Chiyram said on November 24th, 2012
Easier than an 11 for sure. Really fun route though. All the routes on this ledge are really good, but soft ratings.
10
brhe224 said on October 11th, 2013
Spinner first bolt! Didn't have a wrench to tighten it!
11
dustonian said on October 11th, 2013
Probably too rusty at this point anyway
12
johnwesely said on May 5th, 2014
This route now has glue ins.
13
dustonian said on May 6th, 2014
Great work Johnny, thanks! Thanks to the American Safe Climbing Association for the support: www.safeclimbing.org
14
DrRockso said on May 11th, 2018
Cleaned old stud bolts off today.