Ruby Slippers

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Lady Slipper - Emerald City

Toto's Escape


5.
+0
0 votes

Flying Monkeys 5.11c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Tim Powers, Jamie Baker in 1992
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route is to the left of Ruby Slippers and climbs out of the large hueco.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.94 stars (32 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (36 votes)

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Comments

1
ray said on May 15th, 2003
I think this felt about 5.11c.
2
Roentgen Ray said on July 4th, 2004
If you're a powerhouse boulderer like Ray (not me, the REAL Ray), then this is a piece of cake. If you're an enduro RRG sport climber, your gonna have trouble, as the crux is essentially a 4 move V5.
3
Anonymous said on September 6th, 2004
maybe more like v4+
4
Paul3eb said on October 18th, 2004
i think it's about a 11c, too. the crux felt like something more of a v3. but that's me.
5
Anonymous said on December 10th, 2004
and yet it hasn't been downrated...very interesting
6
jlu said on November 22nd, 2005
one-move wonder... getting over the hueco is pretty killer on the fingers. rest of the route is identical to Ruby Slippers and Diamond in the Rough
7
Brentucky said on August 31st, 2009
If you're not a powerhouse boulderer or a RRG enduro monkey and overall really just kinda suck and plan on falling at the crux then I'd recommded a 2-3 foot sling coming from the 2nd bolt of the 11a next door. This will keep you from getting rope burn or a good nut racking on any failed attempts but not bad at all on rope drag.
8
hypro said on October 30th, 2010
First bolt spins`
9
pigsteak said on October 30th, 2010
bolt or hanger?
10
climb2core said on June 30th, 2011
This thing was 12a when I climbed it back in 2000. Wow that is quite a downgrade... and here I thought I was a 5.12 crusher, lol.
11
climb2core said on June 30th, 2011
Ok, so admittedly more than a decade since I was on it.. but isn't the crux on this as hard as Crack the Whip or J-Rats Back? Both those climbs are pretty moderate climbing with a V3/4 crux...
12
THB said on February 21st, 2012
First bolt spins (bolt... and so obviously the hanger spins too). I had my wrench with me and we tried to tighten it, but we were just spinning the bolt in the bolt hole. I also submitted a bad bolt report to the teamsuck website, but I don't know who's checking that site and how often, so I figured I'd post on here as well... I had a red piece of plastic in my pack that I taped up to the bolt to try to warn people that the bolt is suspect.
13
Jeff said on April 14th, 2012
New fat glue in at first bolt. Couldn't go in direct to clean old spinner, so it's still there. Someone planning on climbing this, please take a small adjustable wrench and do a little work? Thanks.
14
dustonian said on April 14th, 2012
nice Jeff!
15
johnwesely said on May 5th, 2014
This route has been fully reequipped with glue ins
16
dustonian said on May 5th, 2014
Great work J-Lightz! Big thanks to the American Safe Climbing Association for the hardware & epoxy... support them at www.safeclimbing.org
17
Anonymous said on May 5th, 2014
Dang!!! You guys are rocking this year!!! Thanks for the work JW! Send me some pics!!! Ian
18
dustonian said on June 15th, 2014
Piss hard crux. Big thanks to Jeff and Johnny Lightning for all the rebolt work on this wall! Glad I didn't have to whip on that sketchy old first bolt...
19
DrRockso said on May 11th, 2018
4 years later... cleaned the old bolts off this route today, thanks for the hangers!