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No Place Like Home

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Lady Slipper - Emerald City

Father's Day

1 votes

Sharp 5.9 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Jamie Baker, Chris Linderman in 1989
Length: 45ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Walk around the corner from Whiteout to a hand and fistcrack. Lower from anchors or traverse left to another set.
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS

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Quality Consensus

3.36 stars (28 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9 (17 votes)

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Submitted by: rjackson
Date: Sep 11th, 2011


Anonymous said on August 21st, 2003
Actually there are no specific rap anchors. The traverse left lands you on an almost inescapable choss covered alcove. The best option is to traverse right instead and find a bolt for No Place Like Home and rap off that.
Wicked Tribe said on October 16th, 2003
This route is worth doing. It needs its own anchors.
Anonymous said on October 16th, 2003
Historically speaking, going to the alcove on the left and then having to climb back out of it and over to the right is kind of cool. Good test of problem solving skills.
Wicked Tribe said on October 16th, 2003
I solved that problem by not doing it in the first place. Good test of judgement skills in my opinion.
Anonymous said on October 18th, 2003
Or a lack of a spirit for adventure.
Huggybone said on September 23rd, 2004
The dihedral just left of this route is a 5.5 called 'father's day' put up by myself and window-ho. 1st pitch, easy dihedral, second pitch follows a flake that leads to the top of the cliff. 100' (i think)
Anonymous said on August 19th, 2008
This climb now has ring anchors. At the top of the crack, and in the alcove.
michaelarmand said on August 24th, 2009
Great route, thanks for the anchors!
kman154 said on May 8th, 2010
this was a really cool route to me.
Jeff said on September 11th, 2011
Really enjoyable climb. If you come up to do Whiteout and don't get on this, you should probably smack yourself.
rjackson said on September 12th, 2011
A hidden gem. Special thanks to the anchor fairy!
john e aragon said on June 17th, 2014
Excellent route now that has anchors. Thanks for placing them.
Anonymous said on November 10th, 2014
It is a nice route, it has anchors, but needs chains, as the two bolts are side-by-side, and that generates lots of force when rapping or top -roping.
Anonymous said on September 8th, 2016
This is such an underrated route. It's so fun. It's got an off-width, a splitter crack, and a finger crack on slab. Only problem with it is it's too short. It climbs like a sport route, and the grade accurately reflects that.
KhaoticKlimber said on March 29th, 2020
Fun and chill! Prime candidate for softest 5.9 trad in the Red however, especially compared to other 9's like the one and only Underling and Blue Runner, or even 8's like Arachnid.
AidClimber said on March 30th, 2020
Imagine spraying about a 5.9 being soft
Anonymous said on March 30th, 2020
Hey Khaotic, you werenโ€™t on this this weekend, were you?
KhaoticKlimber said on March 30th, 2020
Nah anon, I climbed it last year. I happened to drive by yesterday and saw the hordes parked at Lady Slipper and this route happened to come to mind lol. AidClimber, I'm so very sorry sir. Maybe one day when I get on your level, oh exalted one, and am sending 12's, I'll finally be qualified to talk down to all the gumballs ๐Ÿ™
Anonymous said on March 30th, 2020
Unless you live there, there's no reason to be driving by. And a vacation cabin isn't living there.
KhaoticKlimber said on March 30th, 2020
I do live there actually. As far as I know, leisurely evening drives aren't banned yet, you know, things we didn't use to shame people for doing.
Anonymous said on March 30th, 2020
If you live there, the comment is not shaming. If you don't live there, you deserve to be shamed.
KhaoticKlimber said on March 30th, 2020
Duly noted. Since there couldn't possibly be any other reason why I would drive through there, I'll get up with you next time before I leave to make sure if it's okay ๐Ÿ‘
Anonymous said on March 30th, 2020
When locals start getting their tires slashed, things are going to get real interesting. Hope it's not YOU that makes that mistake.
KhaoticKlimber said on March 30th, 2020
Trust me, I haven't been out there and you won't be seeing me out there. But whenever people start getting shot for fucking around with vehicles, I hope it's not YOU who takes the bullet.