Yellow Brick Road

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Lady Slipper - Emerald City

Roar of the Cowardly Lion


15.
+0
0 votes

The Shining 5.8+ (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Brent Lewis, Ron Snider in 1983
Length: 30ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Walk 50 feet right from Yellow Brick Road to locate this obvious, short fingercrack in black rock.
Short but cool.
Moves: Fingers
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.91 stars (54 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9- (48 votes)

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Comments

1
Wicked Tribe said on September 24th, 2004
Crux is the opening moves. A good spotter is recommended.
2
Wes said on May 30th, 2005
More crack moves then many trad routes that are much longer.
3
michaelarmand said on August 19th, 2008
Great climb, nice layback moves...
4
whilojo said on September 3rd, 2008
I was there last weekend. Look out for nest of copperheads below and slightly to left of this crack.
5
Myke Dronez said on October 27th, 2008
the kind of crack that fuels the addiction, if only it were longer...
6
Dman said on February 16th, 2009
great route def felt more like 9 than 8
7
Ascentionist said on February 16th, 2009
Hence the 5.8+ rating...
8
sunder said on May 1st, 2009
Ned to do it clean and not hang dog
9
caribe said on October 19th, 2009
Nice route, good warm up. protects well.
10
tania said on November 16th, 2009
hard start, great crack climbing....be solid at the grade or bring a crash pad for the bottom!!!
11
rjackson said on November 28th, 2009
Awesome. Simply awesome. If only it were longer...
12
DrRockso said on February 19th, 2013
Great route. Would be a classic if it were longer.
13
Ascentionist said on February 10th, 2014
One time while doing this route I inadvertently made an oppositional placement...with my fingers! Did a dynamic move off a semi-underclinging finger lock and nailed a higher finger lock. Though I was going to have to send my belayer for Don Fig.
14
Catawaba said on April 20th, 2015
Awesome route!! so many great jams, protects really well (.5-1, multiple .75s), plenty of good feet after the boulder start, one of my favorite crack climbs in the gorge. As many have said, if only it was longer...
15
campby said on October 17th, 2016
I thought there were at least a few 5.9 crack moves on this route. But, it's so short that it cannot be a legit RRG 5.9. 8+ is fair in my mind. Be prepared to get your finger lockin on. Awesome!