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Nailbiter

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Lady Slipper - Global Village

 Howard Roark

2.
+4
4 votes

Eureka 5.6 (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Scott Hammon and James Neukam
Length: 85ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route is located near the obvious main arete on the wall as you near the end of the approach trail. Walk left from the main arete and look for a yellowish face with an overhanging headwall. The route ascending this face is The Wheel of Time. Keep walking to the left and look for another bolted line on a plated face which is Eureka.
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
fun (3) classic (2) juggy (2) shady (1) vertical (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.14 stars (169 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.6 (126 votes)

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Submitted by: philip_sallee2
Date: Mar 24th, 2016

Submitted by: hamsco
Date: Aug 17th, 2014

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Oct 31st, 2010

Submitted by: Redpoint
Date: Sep 10th, 2009

Submitted by: agentWTF
Date: May 2nd, 2009

Submitted by: lafinca
Date: Apr 16th, 2009

Submitted by: ahab
Date: Aug 14th, 2008

Submitted by: strawmyers
Date: Jul 29th, 2008

Submitted by: strawmyers
Date: Jul 28th, 2008

Submitted by: feelup0303
Date: Mar 25th, 2008

Submitted by: feelup0303
Date: Mar 23rd, 2008

Submitted by: ahab
Date: Aug 15th, 2007

Submitted by: ahab
Date: Aug 15th, 2007

Submitted by: Sketch
Date: May 25th, 2006

Submitted by: oldman
Date: Jan 3rd, 2006

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

47 comments {add your own comments}
1
Huggybone said on March 22nd, 2003
the dihedral to the right of eureaka is 'Howard Roark' FA Alexis Scott. 5.9+/10a
2
longlegsrule said on May 18th, 2003
warm up! Gosh dang it I need to learn how to lead.
3
hopelesslycruel said on August 23rd, 2003
This is a fabulous route for new climbers.
4
Jerry Bargo said on March 2nd, 2004
I was eyeing that dihedral and thinking that surely someone had plucked it by now. Looks nice!
5
Sunshine said on May 3rd, 2004
I have never done this route.
6
philip171 said on June 19th, 2004
A nice long easy lead, all though it did take me 45 mins.
7
Anonymous said on July 9th, 2004
WARNING!! large -4 foot piece of rock appears to be loose. It was marked with a chalk "X" on 7/9/2004- you can skirt left of the loose part without getting off route. Somewhere around the fourth or fifth bolt, deffinitely above the third one on the lower part of the route. Justen
8
said on July 12th, 2004
this route sucks. The FA's who bolted it should be flogged! BLING!
9
said on July 15th, 2004
goes great on gear.
10
peteypablo said on April 9th, 2005
who uses the word BLING anymore get with it sandy
11
Anonymous said on April 9th, 2005
But i agree with sandy nothing much here, no fun moves or anything
12
djmitche said on September 7th, 2005
This is a great route for a first lead - bombproof feet, juggy hands..
13
Feanor007 said on November 4th, 2005
pleasent afternoon with my dad and little bro
14
lawsonstone said on November 30th, 2005
The highest I've ever climbed--for a 50 year old geezer even on top-rope, i found it plenty fun and challenging. Maybe my 6th or 7th route. I've promised myself I'll lead this one in the spring.
15
ewaaser said on March 9th, 2006
Excellent route for someone learning to lead sport. Easy and long.
16
Papatrad said on May 4th, 2006
My 17 year old son just led it for the first time today. He was thrilled and I couldn't be more proud. We gotta have routes like this where people can learn. We have all been through it.
17
pigsteak said on June 4th, 2006
way harder than 5.6.
18
Ptaimers said on June 9th, 2006
Great long route. Maybe 5.7 at the top. Fun moves, great practice.
19
dnalienator said on August 21st, 2006
Definite 5.6 Ptaimers. Unless you're out of shape. :)
20
ReachHigh said on September 7th, 2006
I didn't see where it got hard up top. great route.
21
B.J. said on October 19th, 2006
Fun, easy route. Good beginner lead.
22
tunedvwgti said on September 1st, 2007
Great route for first time sport leads... I would say it is definitely a 5.6 - looks big and scary-maybe- but still a 5.6- huge bucket holds, nothing to sketchy- a lot of fun... DO IT!
23
soccerfast007 said on November 14th, 2007
Felt harder than any 6 I've ever done, but that's just me, maybe it was the cold, or the repeated sidepulling and occasional lack of obvious footing. Definitely a great lead climb, near the top is tough if you try to go directly up from the last bolt to the anchors instead of following the juggy brick road to right and clipping from there. 20 minute hike well worth it
24
said on May 5th, 2008
My first ever lead!!!!
25
B.J. said on May 9th, 2008
Also really fun as an easy trad lead.
26
pkananen said on June 20th, 2008
I lead this on gear a while ago, but ended up clipping bolts when the plates got thin near the top. Where did you find gear up there?
27
Anonymous said on June 21st, 2008
I led this on gear many years ago and don't remember having a single problem finding placements. That's all I remember, though. I think bypassing bolts can just flip a person out on a certain level. Had they not been there, you probably would have seen plenty of gear options.
28
keegan540 said on June 24th, 2008
Easy 5.6. If you climb at any grade this route is worth doing. Would be badass if it was another 80 feet but......
29
Myke Dronez said on July 31st, 2008
Stellar! Its another one hand on the camera, one hand on the ATC, from the ground ass shot of someone TR'ing Eureka! Doesn't anybody have any good flicks of their partner getting gangbanged by the inbreeding spiders on Howard Roark? Squeal like a pig city boy!
30
mpittdawg said on August 4th, 2008
Be very carefule on this climb about halfway up. There is a large chunk of rock that is about ready to go. It sounds very hollow and there is a small x on it already.
31
ahab said on August 14th, 2008
happy now?
32
AdSprad said on August 31st, 2008
This is not a 5.6 in my book. There is a slab section near the top that I don't think a 5.6 climber would find very easy in anyway. This climb is a great warm up or a great cool down. Wonderful variations in holds and moves, you can make it as hard or easy as you would want...practice some heel hooks ect... on this one.
33
CLIMBTRAD said on September 23rd, 2008
Easy trad lead . Cams, tri cams, nuts, hexes takes it all. NO BOLTS NEEDED.
34
agentWTF said on May 2nd, 2009
If you are climbing with a girlfriend who is afraid of heights, take her up this route.
35
rokjunki said on July 14th, 2009
fun easy climb
36
Redpoint said on July 17th, 2009
It's not that easy for a 5.6, conserve your energy and shake out on the plates, it's a long haul.
37
MonkeySpank said on August 3rd, 2009
Lots of height for new leaders
38
Izzy said on August 14th, 2009
Great route. From what I've seen this is the best rout to put a new climber on. Lots of height, plenty of rests, nice features, well bolted.
39
kharvey said on September 28th, 2009
So much fun!
40
Anonymous said on October 3rd, 2011
Super fun, but challenging! I would definitely do this route again!
41
Willy said on March 29th, 2012
42
nik said on May 8th, 2012
even though there's not much else for beginners to do at this crag (the 10a around the corner is sort of awkward at the beginning), i always take them to this climb. fun to wind down the trip on this. cool hike, too.
43
goat largon said on October 19th, 2015
Fun! A little harder than 5.6 in my book. A few thin sections then a jug would come along. Start was difficult, use a stick clip.
44
rich said on November 29th, 2015
This route is great. Go for an adventurous hike and then climb a wonderful pitch.
45
anticlmber said on March 26th, 2016
Because of that picture I now can't come within 500ft of that climb. Thanks
46
Anonymous said on March 26th, 2016
Shit, you'll have nothing to climb now JR
47
Anonymous said on March 26th, 2016
Except your mom. But I'm not into rattly fists or armbarring up a wet slot only to find some shitty old tat. Luckily I've already laid to rest big these old classics. Xo