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Howard Roark

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Lady Slipper - Global Village

Father and Son

0 votes

The Wheel of Time 5.13b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Dave Hume in 1996
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk right from Eureka to the yellowish face with an overhanging headwall to find this bolted line.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS

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3 stars (2 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.7 (2 votes)

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Sorry, no pictures to be had. {want to add a photo?}


Anonymous said on November 17th, 2004
Anonymous said on March 17th, 2005
that's cause those bolts are sketchy as hell. If retrobolted, it may see more traffic
djmitche said on September 7th, 2005
I'm told they're Porter bolts - made from old bedframes. I'd love to see someone send this!
Paul3eb said on November 8th, 2006
anyone know if a ton of stuff has broken off this route? seemed to me like a few flakes had broken off on the lower, facey part. some cool movement on sketchy rock.
RRO said on November 8th, 2006
this route and the other 2 routes with porter hangers and older bolts will be replaced this winter.
Wes said on November 15th, 2009
Or, maybe this winter? Nothing like hippie time! Good think JR (that JR) and Charlie were there to take up the slack and finish when I had to leave. New bolts, new hangers, and new anchors 11-15-09. Pretty sure this was the last route with porter hangers. Now all you 5.13 chuffers can climb it in reasonable safety.
gripster said on November 17th, 2009
What about Out on a Limb at ESB? I was there about a month ago and that thing still had porter hangers on it. Can you say awe inspiring?
Wes said on November 17th, 2009
Out on a limb has one, maybe two porter hangers on the easy part, for nostalgia only. There might be one on Soul Ram toward the bottom, but only because they couldn't remove when it was rebolted. And, I have no doubt there are more scattered around, unpublished, for us to stumble upon sooner or later. Wheel was the last published route with porter hangers to get re-equipped. We had talked about leaving on for the first bolt there as well, but didn't. BTW, I think this route might be the 5.13 version of Mule - really cool, but no one will do it because it is different. Just looking at it while on a static line made me want to train again, to be able to give it a real go sometime. As *someone* said about mule "only players get on this route."
SCIN said on November 17th, 2009
Hell freakin' yea! Thanks for the new equipment on this line Wes and Team Suck. I'm psyched to check it out. Especially if it's a harder Soul Ram.
512OW said on November 19th, 2009
Thanks Team Suck. I was just talking about checking this thing out last week. Now I definitely will. Muchas Gracias.
dustonian said on August 29th, 2012
so did either of you two studs ever "check this one out"? it looks like it hasn't been touched in years.
SCIN said on August 29th, 2012
dustonian said on August 29th, 2012
heard it was a crumbly sandpile...
andy_c said on September 15th, 2014
Climbed the bottom/face while the group waited for other climbs.. some good holds flexed, and a few feet broke on me. Enjoyed it, though. No chalk anywhere, which was both novel and nice.