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The Wheel of Time

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Lady Slipper - Global Village

 Kentucky Pinstripe

5.
+0
0 votes

Father and Son 5.7 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: John Bronaugh, Alex Yeakley in 1993
Length: 40ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This route begins about 30 feet right of The Wheel of Time in a flake and ends at some anchors on a ledge.
Moves: Fingers
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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3.43 stars (104 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.7 (67 votes)

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Submitted by: strawmyers
Date: Oct 30th, 2018

Submitted by: possum2082
Date: Feb 9th, 2009

Submitted by: ahab
Date: Aug 14th, 2008

Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Jan 2nd, 2006

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

20 comments {add your own comments}
1
vic said on October 22nd, 2003
Fun route, a little short, but worth doing at least couple of times.
2
andy_lemon said on November 24th, 2003
Do I climb the face or do I climb the crack? Had to climb it twice to find out which way was more ethical. :)
3
philip171 said on June 19th, 2004
Dangit I wish I could trad climb......
4
Anonymous said on July 4th, 2004
We saw five copperheads chilling out around this climb. They won't bite you unless you step on them, so watch for them on the trail and under rocks.
5
Ben said on November 16th, 2004
Yeah,I saw a small snake on the wide edge on the left 3/4 ways up. How that snake got there is a mystery. It was just chillin catchin some rays, I left it alone.
6
Timeone said on July 10th, 2005
Fun short trad climb, good for first trad lead
7
Captain Bad Beta said on October 4th, 2005
I did this climb last year and there was only one ring to rap from. Not sure if anyone added a second.
8
Feanor007 said on November 4th, 2005
fun climb, beautiful top
9
p0bray01 said on May 26th, 2006
Climbed half of Kentucky Pinstripe.... set up a TR for this route...I am going to learn trad...(drool) 5 copperheads! I kinda freaked out about one! almost stepped on him. He was just chillin and sunnin'.... He left later... then we finished Ky Pin. (shiver)
10
B.J. said on October 18th, 2006
I'm very new to trad and this was a very comfortable lead for me. Short route with lots of face moves, but there's always the option for crack moves as well. Easy to protect. Eats stoppers. I too saw a bunch of small copperheads hanging out at the base of the climb. About 6 of em, I'd say. Didn't see any adult ones though...
11
ecp88 said on March 24th, 2007
Nice trad lead. Takes passive pro nicely.
12
tunedvwgti said on November 5th, 2007
Good lead. I used some tri-cams and lots of small cams. Can be trickier if you climb the crack instead of the face...
13
ahab said on March 24th, 2008
1st trad lead. aptly enough, it was with a father & son duo. short & sweet.
14
keegan540 said on June 24th, 2008
can't be a 5.7, compared to Roadside Attraction. Still a fun climb, watch out for the copperheads at the base.
15
possum2082 said on February 9th, 2009
okay, maybe i'm just a wimp. i couldn't get my hands in the crack most of the time. i couldn't find good plugging stances. getting to the ledge at the top from the crack scared the heck out of me. yeah. i'm a probe.
16
Myke Dronez said on February 9th, 2009
yes opossum. you really should just keep that stuff to yourself- it will only embarrass you in another year. and please, only photos of climbs or climbing- this isn't red river hangdog my big ass up father and son dot com. that is all.
17
Anonymous said on February 9th, 2009
wow. i was belaying in that pic. i had left my nut tool on the ground and my buddy (who had just done the 10a next door and didn't really want to climb f&s) was trying to get a stubborn nut out of the crack for me. thanks for the input, though. ;)
18
cameier said on March 1st, 2009
Stuffed the heck out of the line with gear!!
19
Willy said on December 30th, 2013
Fun route! The Red needs more cracks like this one for its newbie trad climbers... Anyone know if the short finger crack on the face right of this has been led?
20
DrRockso said on September 25th, 2015
Anchors replaced with SS Glue-Ins ~7/1/2015.