Vision

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Lady Slipper - Global Village

Chain Mail


8.
+0
0 votes

Jake Flake 5.8 (Trad) **

First Ascent: Scott Hammon in 1999
Length: 80ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This route ascends the next seam to the right of Vision. Take the seam to a flake and continue on face to the top.
Descent: Rap off trees or the rings at the top of Vision
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.17 stars (30 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8+ (34 votes)

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Comments

1
Gothmog said on May 27th, 2003
I felt it was more like 5.9 R. I don't remember rap anchors, we rapped KY Pinstripe.
2
Paul3eb said on April 2nd, 2006
nothing really r about it my opinon. from the ground, it looks hard to protect but the spots are there when you get there. bring small gear, ie: purple metolius or smaller. definitely fun and should get more traffic than it does..
3
Ascentionist said on April 3rd, 2006
If you don't have cams smaller than the #1 Metolius TCU it is almost impossible to protect. I have small stoppers but couldn't get much in the first 20 feet. I felt it was definitely R-rated without tiny cams. A lot of people don't have itty bitty cams.
4
Huggybone said on November 29th, 2006
You can start on this and then do a facey crossover to the anchors of vision.
5
RRO said on January 27th, 2007
not r if you have small cams and a few small nuts. def should get as much or more traffic as vision.fun route that makes you think whatever the grade.
6
anticlmber said on August 9th, 2007
superb!! calling this R because lack of personal gear doesn't make it R. sewed the bottom up and still got gear most of the way to the top. just a touch tougher than five finger. 8+
7
dbarless said on October 17th, 2007
Really good climb, as good if not better than Vision, take smaller gear to protect!!! Shares anchors with Vision. Rating this a .9 is absurd!
8
Peng said on October 6th, 2008
Did not find bolted anchors climbing straight up. Therefore, note that if someone wants to top rope this after your lead, you will have to use anchors on Vision (10 feet left) and find a way to put in a directional. If you had really thin fingers that can get into really small flakes, this is easier than 5.8. Having small cams also help (example BD C3 Camalots). Do this if you have time on your hands, otherwise, I'd recommend "Father and Son", "Vision" and "Casual Viewing" as more fun climbs than this. BTW, the last flaky bit was super loose and we pulled it out (easily) as this will definitely fall on some belayer's / passer-by's head real soon. Does not change the grade even if the move has become just slightly harder.
9
rjackson said on October 20th, 2008
Definitely ample protection down low with 'small' gear; it's not a gimme. Use the anchors at the top of Vision.
10
kdrink said on November 2nd, 2009
If you follow the route through the run out at the top be prepared to build your own anchor.
11
hamsco said on September 6th, 2011
This climb now has it's own set of anchors.
12
PunkRock said on November 9th, 2016
Laughing at the R-rating comments. You could protect this whole route with one set of nuts. A couple small mets or something similar are nice though. I think I used three aliens and two or three nuts.