Science Friction

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Roadside Crag - LIMITED ACCESS

Hemisfear


8.
+0
0 votes

Hard Left 5.10a (Mixed) ***

First Ascent: Charles Tabor, Mike Torbett in 1990
Length: 70ft
Bolts/Gear: 0/ (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route is located about 300 feet left of Five Finger Discount on the next obvious clean section of the wall. The route begins in a left-angling crack which fades out in the middle of the wall. Climb up a short slab to the base of the crack to begin. When the crack ends, traverse left and down to the large hueco to some anchors.
Moves: Fingers
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: Graining Fork Nature Preserve
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.55 stars (22 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (9 votes)

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Submitted by: rjackson
Date: Dec 19th, 2009

Submitted by: chriss
Date: Jan 18th, 2006

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

1
weeksjr said on November 10th, 2003
Totally cool! Climbed up and then just chilled in the Hueco for a bit!
2
Gaar said on May 9th, 2005
P.O.S. route not worth the time or the stars!
3
Wolf said on October 5th, 2007
Fun moves. Protect the second! The anchors in the hueco are below the pieces you'll be putting in on the traverse, so they'll be acting as the top anchor.
4
Myke Dronez said on September 22nd, 2008
If this is 10a it must be the dirty bolted section-the crack is fun but too short lived. silly climb but huecos are cool.
5
michaelarmand said on May 25th, 2009
From the ground I could not see if there is good protection on the traverse...is there? It looks really sketchy....why not put anchors on this climb?
6
512OW said on May 26th, 2009
Uhh... it has anchors. As mentioned. Also, as mentioned, there is obviously pro. I'm gonna start selling gear lists to all the RRG trad climbs for the bumbly gear chuffers.
7
michaelarmand said on May 26th, 2009
Yeah, anchors 30 ft left and 10 ft down on another route....how convenient!
8
Wolf said on May 28th, 2009
It is called "Hard Left".
9
rjackson said on July 19th, 2009
Fun route with several cool moves. Wide range of gear sizes (I used a 00 C3 to a #3 C4) with limited placement opportunity, but plugging gear was on easier ground. Take your time and it will come to you...
10
ahab said on July 20th, 2009
the actual climbing is ok at best, but c'mon. how often do you look at fall potential while seconding in the red? novelty climbing at its finest.
11
One-Fall said on February 2nd, 2010
New first and third bolt (bolt 2 was in good shape).