Andromeda Strain

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Roadside Crag - LIMITED ACCESS


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Milkin' the Chicken 5.11d (Mixed) **

First Ascent: Mark Williams in 1990
Length: 50ft
Bolts/Gear: 3/ (report bad bolts/anchors)

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From the end of the approach trail, make a right instead of heading up to Roadside Attraction. The trail will wind down through some trees and head back up to the wall referred to as the "5.10 Wall". This route ascends the arete on the left side of the wall making use of a couple of bolts and a slung chicken head for protection.
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: Graining Fork Nature Preserve

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Quality Consensus

2.67 stars (9 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11d (7 votes)

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Sorry, no pictures to be had. {want to add a photo?}


tonybubb said on June 18th, 2003
This route was origianlly rated 5.10 and was hard at the grade. I don't know about 11d though?!?! did holds break off?
Johnny said on September 6th, 2003
It was originally underrated and then holds broke.
J-Rock said on November 30th, 2004
Very hard start! Sandbaggers!
One-Fall said on June 25th, 2006
Long moves on good crimps. There are anchors on this route.
Paul3eb said on March 19th, 2007
no harder than the infidel or skunk love. awesome route, honestly. holds were a lot more solid than it looked and the movement was really good. felt really hard the first go but you'll see everything you're missing if you hang for a minute (or ten). the chicken head is huge and the climbing is 5.7 past at that point.. ie: don't let the mixed part make you avoid this route. if it were bolted a little better, might see the traffic it deserves. 4 stars - seriously, a cool route, especially if you're looking for something different at roadside..
Power2U said on April 6th, 2008
Good climbing...SCARRY FUN at its' best!
JR said on October 13th, 2008
What little hype there is for this route, don't believe it. Thanks alot Paul3PO. I am going to get you for this!
pawilkes said on February 4th, 2010
the worst route i've been on at Roadside. It should only be mentioned in the third edition of the guide to warn people not to get on it.
pigsteak said on February 4th, 2010
superb route..would advise everyone who isn't a sally bolt clipper to give it a run...
Jeff said on February 5th, 2010
Indubitably, Mr. Steak!
Andrew said on February 5th, 2010
I actually liked it.
anticlmber said on February 5th, 2010
i liked it to. do it on gear