Jersey Connection

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Roadside Crag - LIMITED ACCESS

Stay the Hand (Direct Start)


23.
+3
3 votes

Stay the Hand 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard, Mark Schussler in 1990
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Begin by climbing the start of Jersey Connection then move right on pockets toward a flake. An alternate and harder start ascends the three bolts beneath the anchors (5.12c).
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Graining Fork Nature Preserve
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.25 stars (53 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (43 votes)

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Submitted by: Lil Josh
Date: May 25th, 2008

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

1
KenJo said on February 11th, 2004
onsite
2
Meadows said on February 28th, 2005
My first .12!!!!
3
Anonymous said on March 1st, 2005
soft for the grade
4
Paul3eb said on April 4th, 2005
fun boulder problems! i wish it was a little more sustained..
5
Stewy911 said on May 24th, 2005
i think its pretty sustained
6
Anonymous said on August 10th, 2005
This route kicks my ass
7
512OW said on March 27th, 2007
I hate this route. I'm glad I never have to do that dumb boulder problem again...
8
TVA said on October 9th, 2007
felt hard for the grade to me. those pockets at the first bolt suck.
9
TVA said on October 9th, 2007
it appears like the big pocket right of the first bolt has been drilled. the back of the pocket has a perfect incut for 3 fingers. Looks like it was made w/a 1/2 in bit. has anyone else noticed this?
10
rhunt said on October 9th, 2007
yep total drill job on this pile. use to go at solid 5.15c but we needed to make it easier... I regret using the 1/2 drill bit now in retrospect, it was 1990 and I was young and stupid.
11
pigsteak said on October 9th, 2007
rhunt, I was the one who drilled..you lying cheater..why try to take my glory?
12
JR said on October 9th, 2007
If this route was manufactured. You really suck. I mean jesus who did you chip it for? A girl. I can hardly get my fingers in those pockets. Where is the love? I would have preferred a sinker two finger. O well, maybe next time. Keep up the good work Rhunt-Steak.
13
tania said on October 29th, 2007
I'm usually pretty good at the bouldery stuff, but the bottom of this kicked my ass!!! Tweaked my finger on the top little pocket above the first bolt...fun climbing after second bolt though.
14
Anonymous said on February 27th, 2009
This route was a much of an upset as when my girlfriend said she would give me a blumpkin and I had diarrhea.
15
Lil Josh said on May 15th, 2009
Finger licking good.
16
jdstic2 said on December 2nd, 2009
bouldery and sequential but really fun. its not over after the second bolt, save some for the end
17
Anonymous said on January 17th, 2014
All the trees, with all their laden branches; all the shrubs, and ferns, and grasses; the message-carrying air; all these unceasingly were active. Through the lacings of the leaves, the great sun seemed a flying shuttle weaving the unwearied verdure. Oh, busy weaver! unseen weaver! -- pause! -- one word! -- wither flows the fabric? what palace may it deck? wherefore all these ceaseless toilings? Speak, weaver! -- stay thy hand! -- [From "Moby Dick", Ch. 102] thanks Porter.
18
climb2core said on April 21st, 2015
Rebolted 4/20/15 with community funded glue ins. Thanks all.