Scissors

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Roadside Crag - LIMITED ACCESS

Tic-tac-toe


30.
+2
2 votes

Ro Shampo 5.12a (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Jamie Baker, Jim Link in 1992
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the next bolted line right of Scissors and shares a start with Tic-tac-toe.

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

4.55 stars (146 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (147 votes)

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Comments

1
KenJo said on February 11th, 2004
onsite
2
Gravesrs said on September 13th, 2004
Looking good Mike!
3
hashplant5 said on September 28th, 2004
skip the crux with a reach
4
rhunt said on November 23rd, 2004
an F'ing jug haul...11b at best
5
Gaar said on December 26th, 2004
What Crux!!!!!!! Same damn thing the whole way up!
6
Stewy911 said on March 31st, 2005
this thing would prob be 5.10b if it was vertical. I guess you couls say that about alot of climbs in the gorge.
7
tbwilsonky said on September 2nd, 2005
climbing anywhere on anything is easier as the steepness fades. Thanatopsis would be a parking lot if it were horizontal.
8
chouca said on October 13th, 2005
without reach itīs 12a
9
Paul3eb said on October 18th, 2005
actually, without reach, wouldn't it be impossible?
10
Anonymous said on March 26th, 2006
11d....one move crux to predictable finish.
11
Anonymous said on May 25th, 2006
i like the 5.7. well done, that is all.
12
merrick said on June 2nd, 2006
best 5.7 I have ever done. the steepest too.
13
hoss said on June 13th, 2006
The 5.7 rating is brilliant considering the whole 11.d/12.a debate, but it ought to be changed back to one or the other so some idiot doesn't get on it thinking it's super easy.
14
jlu said on August 27th, 2006
My first 5.12! Probably more like 5.11d, but still super fun. Very straightforward, just brute force incline
15
belay slave said on October 2nd, 2006
11D, 12A, whatever...great climb, can be pumpy and with some reach the crux can be avoided.
16
Captain Bad Beta said on October 10th, 2006
I TR'ed it. Not my style and way above me rating wise... I still got up it. Had a lot of fun and hope to make it a lead project one day.
17
Gaar said on March 26th, 2007
There are new anchors on this....but it seems like (to me) you can now clip them without doing the last dyno/traverse move thus making is much easier...also the old anchors are still there which appear to be in decent shape.... so you now have a choice of cliping up to five bolts for setting up your anchor...hmmm
18
Anonymous said on February 19th, 2009
why debate 11d/12a? its just to give you an idea for what your getting on, they're close, if you want to say"i climbed 12a" then fine, you climbed 12a(props bro)
19
Fartspray said on July 23rd, 2010
Roy's Shampoo is one of the best non classic rigs in KY
20
ACD said on October 30th, 2010
11d/12a? One hard move, not a classic by my standards. Three stars? Looks nicer in photos than it feels to climb, maybe that's why its so popular. Return of Chris s, a much better climb.
21
Anonymous said on October 2nd, 2012
Does anyone have a latitude/longitude measurement for Ro Shampo? #sisterneedingaChristmasgift for my brother
22
Anonymous said on October 2nd, 2012
Yeah its right at: c3ag.0120, -c1ose6.894
23
DrRockso said on April 24th, 2015
This route was updated with community funded SS Glue-Ins 4/21/2015.
24
Anonymous said on September 8th, 2015
As if 9/7/2015: The glue-ins on Ro Shampo look pretty new (thank you). However, the 3rd bolt (crux bolt) is seeping water from within the bolt hole and it looks fairly corroded. It wouldn't hurt to have a second set of eyes look at it, but this bolt sees a ton of falls.
25
Anonymous said on September 8th, 2015
The corrosion mentioned above is on the rock itself, not the bolt which is Stainless Steel and unlikely to show signs of corrosion for many more years. Since some of the old holes were reused when rebolting this, the rock beneath some of the glue-ins will have some rust discoloration as a result of the old carbon steel bolts which were removed from those holes.
26
climb2core said on October 26th, 2015
Added 2 quick links to 2nd last bolt and contoured sharp edge. Please leave quick links on it and clip those to avoid any potential abrasion to your dogbone after a fall or while boinking/swinging on that bolt
27
MeatSweats said on June 23rd, 2016
11d
28
Nick said on June 24th, 2016
MEATSWEATS HATH SPOKEN! LET THE GRADE HENCEFORTH NEVER BE QUESTIONED-IT IS 11D
29
Anonymous said on June 24th, 2016
meatsweats really has a way of cutting through debate and indecision. meatsweats knows how to simplify really complex issues and to make bold, declarative statements about the way that things are. meatsweats is the leader this country needs. meatsweats 2016!!!
30
Anonymous said on June 24th, 2016
I got some buckeye beta for you , put a pocket pussy on your imagination and it will keep your mind off masturbation and your right hand on the rock, will then feel easy like chloroform date, all the best SuperSafeIan.
31
grantmason said on April 18th, 2017
AWESOME ROUTE! Lil soft but it climbs great, which is more important anyway. PLEASE PLEASE clip the chains from the awesome ledge above, the routes already so short that those moves can make a difference.
32
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2017
PLEASE PLEASE clip from wherever you want to clip from because who really cares about the way that other people climb a route.