Tic-tac-toe

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Roadside Crag - LIMITED ACCESS

Strevels Gets In Shape


32.
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Eric and Brian's Excellent Adventure 5.11d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Eric Anderson, Brian McCray in 1993
Length: 100ft
Bolts: 11 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This bolted line begins in the second dihedral right of Ro Shampo. 60-meter rope required.
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Graining Fork Nature Preserve
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.5 stars (6 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11d (7 votes)

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Comments

1
Bashie said on May 6th, 2005
I replaced the first two bolts, and added stainless fixe bolts at the anchor. I'll replace the rest with Powers bolts soon. Pumpy route, no waiting. There is a little run-out down low, but it's only 5.7. Stick clip the first bolt, and start off the boulder. Use 2-foot draws on the first two bolts to avoid rope drag.
2
Green3 said on August 3rd, 2005
This route is a nightmare to clean, the anchors are essentially useless, as there is a Sharp Sharp edge that rubs the rope, which is why there is a screw link on the last bolt, the swing is something even the reckless whould think twice about, i had to leave a draw up on the route to shorten the swing if I took it, but just ended up climbing up to it to get it back. I am someone who likes almost every route i get on, and while the climbing is decent at best on this one, I question if it's worth it, CLEAN THIS ON TR
3
Green3 said on August 3rd, 2005
My mistake, you can't clean it on TR, unless you want your rope sliced, just avoid it
4
Power2U said on May 30th, 2006
Just b/c I enjoyed the climbing on this I have to explain how to clean it. Also thank you Bashie for replacing the anchors.. the old ones which are there still are sketchy to say the least. As for cleaning I agree don't take the swing. Clean down to the first bolt, I actually downclimbed the last three bolts, while staying tramed in. then lower down from the first draw staying cliped in there. THen once yoy're down simply use a stickl clip to get the draw back. A simply soloution would be to leave a quick link on the 3rd draw and tighten it on with pliers so that it can't be removed. I may do that next time I'm on it. As for the climbing the first 3 bolts are a little ugly but after t6hat it turns into quality solid rock with very different holds, for the Red. Plus as an added bonus there is an actual crux. Not sure why this thing has such a reputation as a choss pile that is not fun. It is definitely an "Excellent Adventure"?!?!?!
5
anticlmber said on July 19th, 2007
this route is GREAT!! one of my three favorites at roadside. good choss training, longer than just about everything, no line, and great moves. very different climbing. worth the trip.
6
512OW said on June 29th, 2009
Climbing was pretty fun after bolt 3. Cleaning sucked, but not terrible. Worth it if you've done the rest...