Camel Toe Jockey

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Roadside Crag - LIMITED ACCESS

Up Yonder


36.
+2
2 votes

Way Up Yonder 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard in 1993
Length: 95ft
Bolts: 13 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This bolted line is located a few feet right of Wild Gift just right of a right-facing dihedral. Climb pockets up an overhanging wall and continue up past a set of anchors through the massive overhanging wall above. Or you can stop at the first set of anchors for a good 5.11b.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Graining Fork Nature Preserve
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.03 stars (35 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (22 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

1
ray said on April 7th, 2003
The second pitch of this route is very cool. Good steep climbing and no choss contrary to popular belief.
2
Power2U said on April 14th, 2003
Ray is correct, the second pitch of this route is way steep and way cool... fun climbing.
3
goodguy said on April 15th, 2003
only did first pitch
4
littlefeller said on June 17th, 2003
only did the first pitch
5
Yasmeen said on August 7th, 2003
Up Yonder only (for now?...)
6
vic said on November 22nd, 2003
Working on the first pitch, but it gets rather humid in those pockets, even during a light rain.
7
keebler303 said on February 29th, 2004
only did the first pitch
8
jefflehmkuhl said on March 6th, 2004
only did the first pitch
9
The Pirate said on May 19th, 2004
1st pitch only
10
Yasmeen said on May 26th, 2004
I separated Way Up Yonder from Up Yonder, for those who want to update their tick lists. -5/25/2004
11
Anonymous said on April 6th, 2005
Third bolt on first pitch is loose
12
Meadows said on June 6th, 2008
This compares to Forearm Follies and is much easier.
13
dustonian said on October 5th, 2009
Awesome route... pumpy!
14
said on November 3rd, 2009
Awesome route!!!!!!!!!! keep the pump at bay!!!
15
pawilkes said on December 12th, 2009
I think the best holds and movement are below the first set of anchors. The top is ok, no super cool moves just pump on mostly good holds. The exposure is pretty great though, the guys cleaning it for me on TR were a little freaked out
16
Anonymous said on May 4th, 2011
it seems like it must have been after 2003, but the second pitched sucked when i tried it. i pulled off and stepped on ~10 holds through the first 2-3 bolts after the anchors... is it really better or was i just missing something? seemed crimpy too and not juggy.
17
climb2core said on April 13th, 2015
Fun climbing all the way. Saw one faint blue tick mark just before the chains. Almost as good as finding a Porter hanger. ;)