Release the Kraken

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Roadside Crag - LIMITED ACCESS

Pine


39.
+1
1 votes

The Return of Chris Snyder 5.11d (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard, Mike Norman in 1992
Length: 95ft
Bolts: 11 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk 250 feet right from Sand, past a wet ampitheater and around a corner to a couple of bolted lines ascending a massive and pocketed face. This line begins by climbing a flake to a small roof. Climb through the roof, past a couple of ledges and to the anchors.
Moves: Jugs
Descent: Rap anchors-60m rope required
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Graining Fork Nature Preserve
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.82 stars (60 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11d (48 votes)

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Comments

1
ray said on January 11th, 2003
You can get a couple of no-hands rests on the ledges.
2
Power2U said on April 9th, 2003
I actually inserted my entire body into the wide horizontal break in the cliff up high on the route and laid completely down on my back.
3
Stewy911 said on June 12th, 2004
If any one likes to batman hang ona route this is the one! right over the overhang part is an awesome upside down batman hang oh yea!
4
Artsay said on October 16th, 2004
I love this route!!!
5
jlu said on August 27th, 2006
Super fun route! A bit tougher than Ro Shampo in my opinion, completely due to the mental aspect... definitely not recommended for those with heart problems.
6
Anonymous said on April 6th, 2007
The mental aspect of going from big jug to big jug always messes me up.
7
Anonymous said on July 9th, 2007
it seems to go on forever! spectacular climb and a great view. highly recommended!!!
8
Climbingrocks said on June 28th, 2009
One of the best lines in the gorge
9
Anonymous said on June 29th, 2009
this route is hard if you suck
10
dlewis101 said on September 6th, 2009
Just to warn you, make sure you use the quick link at the roof to clean and lessen your swing. I just slammed into the big tree and it was not fun!
11
dlewis101 said on September 6th, 2009
Oh, and I forgot; for all you haters out there, do NOT take the quick link down! It's there for a reason.
12
der uber said on September 6th, 2009
Just downclimb it.
13
Anonymous said on September 18th, 2009
Downclimbing the last few bolts is doable but NOT a good idea. If you slip or peel off, you will be seriously injured. Do what you want, but just be warned, and be smart,
14
pkananen said on September 18th, 2009
The tree hurts. I've hit it as well. I couldn't get the quick link open when I was on it in the spring.
15
dustonian said on October 1st, 2009
pretty easy to lower off with the first bolt still clipped to belayer's end of rope, creating a little Z in the rope, then climb up and get it later... but the start is often wet and sandy. So yeah some kind of fixed biner where that quicklink is would be better... it's rusted shut at this time and pretty much stuck on the bolt without a wrench anyway. Maybe add a little chain and biner to make that a fixed draw for cleaning purposes?
16
Anonymous said on October 1st, 2009
Just fix the shit, that is what we have done on routes for years. I can't count how much money and time my friends/climbing partners and I have spent doing this to popular routes. do your part and don't sit around waiting for others to do it for you.
17
Jeff said on October 4th, 2009
Wow, a stellar route since '92 and all of a sudden Sept/Oct of 2009 hits and the winers find this gem. Sack up kids.
18
dustonian said on October 5th, 2009
Um... ok, enough with the shit-talking already. just a comment what the route might need at present. I downclimbed from the first bolt so didn't need to leave a biner, but someone else might. and FYI "someone," I've spent thousands of dollars on new routes over the years and didn't really see the need to leave a biner on an old route when I didn't need to. Do you actually have a problem with that or just enjoy the thrill of anonymous spray?
19
JR said on November 10th, 2009
The opening moves are often wet. Be aware that many accidents involving experienced climbers have occurred attempting this route. I would recommend stick clipping.
20
vertical1 said on June 4th, 2010
This route Rocks! Not a bad move on it, they are all fun. One of the best at the Red.
21
said on August 5th, 2010
the quick link is there for you to go indirect and put your rope threw it.....saying that you couldnt open the quick link is not a good excuse...just take an extra min. and do it the right and safe way
22
DonnyP said on March 30th, 2011
I climbed this route (again) this last weekend, and it now has permanent chain draws on every bolt, so cleaning is not an issue. Clipping the tiny 'biners on the anchors is an issue, however, when you are feeling the mega pump this thing can deliver. Thanks to whoever equipped the route. It's one of my favorites.
23
climb2core said on April 13th, 2015
Not a fan of the bolt spacing 1-2 with the Mank about down low. I put a cleaning biner on under the roof. Otherwise, fun climbing!
24
CRZYFST said on May 11th, 2015
Clean biners never last long as I recall on this route. Glad to finally get back and tick this one off though. I suggest a perm right at the roof for cleaning. Met John the owner, really nice guy. Take care of this place.
25
brhe224 said on July 4th, 2016
a makeshift perma was added yesterday to make cleaning easier. It has an aluminum biner on it, so in a few months/years, make sure and check it before you clip
26
Anonymous said on July 4th, 2016
While I understand the good intentions, please do not add any fixed gear at Roadside without permission of the land owner. I have spoken to John about this and it will be taken care soon. Thx Ian
27
Anonymous said on July 4th, 2016
Long live the perma draw police
28
Anonymous said on July 4th, 2016
Das Krüüüüe
29
Anonymous said on July 4th, 2016
Perma police or keeping access open for douchebag anon's... Whichever makes your day.
30
Cocoapuffs1000 said on July 4th, 2016
brhe224: FIxed gear of any kind is explicitly banned at Roadside without landowner permission. And FYI, it is also banned on forest service land. Don't install PD's anywhere without learning the rules first.
31
Anonymous said on July 5th, 2016
whoa...so if I bail off a biner, then this place might get shut down? if the owners are that tempermental, shut it for good. the nanny state is oppressive. lil reggie would agree.
32
Anonymous said on July 5th, 2016
Bailing off All Cows Eat Grass is different than intentionally placing fixed gear. You also have no idea how tolerant they already are. All the same, you probably shouldn't climb there... Oppressive nanny state and all.
33
Cocoapuffs1000 said on July 5th, 2016
Yup, you figured it out. A bail biner could blow the whole works. I know that you fancy yourself an internet Joker (the Heath Ledger kind) so I'm sure you're rubbing your hands with glee at the thought of seeding the place with bail biners and watching complete and utter chaos ensue.
34
lil_reggie said on February 21st, 2017
Anon, Dont bring lil reggie in to back you up on disagreeables. Lil reg does NOT back you up. Don't ruin it for everybody, go climb somewhere else.