The Return of Chris Snyder

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Roadside Crag - LIMITED ACCESS

Just Duet


40.
+0
0 votes

Pine 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard, Jeff Moll in 1992
Length: 95ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route is just right of The Return of Chris Snyder. Similar route but a bit harder.
Formerly known as Devil's Plaything. I have no idea why it changed.
Moves: Jugs
Descent: Rap anchors-60m rope required
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Graining Fork Nature Preserve
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.34 stars (32 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (28 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

1
goodguy said on November 7th, 2003
this route actually does have a technical boulder problem in it about half way up the steep section. Not just a jug haul.
2
Anonymous said on November 28th, 2004
aka 'devil's bitch for a day', all holds upside down. fewer rests than 'return',while no 'crux', as hard and sustained as 'mercy,the huff' ??
3
Anonymous said on December 2nd, 2004
Yea OK I'm apparently the only one who thinks this route is worth the skin, but the picture only tells half the story. If it were in the Motherlode, no one would ever climb Chainsaw or Ale 8. If you can, imagine sex for more than 45 seconds.
4
maxclimb11 said on September 8th, 2006
wow sounds like i need to try this thing
5
chriss said on January 13th, 2007
Classic red river climbing. Very few crumblies, with some nice movement. A touch harder than ROCS, but very nice rests.
6
512OW said on April 23rd, 2007
Mono pinch, undercling, undercling, undercling, pinch... oh, no wait...thats better as an undercling, pocket, undercling, anchors. Good stuff and much fun. One of the anchor bolts is shit.
7
pigsteak said on April 29th, 2007
agreed it is harder than ROCS....the anchor hampton speaks of is not as bad as it looks....it only wiggles when you load it..does that make it bad? seriously, it pivots because of the angle..installing chains would actually work wonders for this puppy.
8
dan4geng said on April 28th, 2008
This route is great. Very unique movement. I'm surprised it doesn't get more traffic.
9
Meadows said on May 2nd, 2008
Kris is right on the Anchor. The left one came out a bit - I did the route and then I did the TR clean and it had pulled out a bit when I got to the top on the 2nd ascent.
10
dustonian said on October 1st, 2009
Killer route!! Perfect to run laps on for enduro training. Could be easier if someone cleaned off the 2 big horizontals for resting. NEEDS NEW BOLT ON ANCHOR, maybe some chain too....
11
said on October 23rd, 2009
I heard that a bolt popped on this thing..... any truth to that?????
12
mike_anderson said on November 6th, 2009
The anchor bolts on this are shit. Both are very rusted and spinning open cold shuts (which are shit when they're new), left bolt sticks out half an inch. It looks like someone replaced the lead bolts but not the anchors...why? 12b or a hard 12a...all holds point the wrong way, and bolted oldskool w/ long runs, especially the last run to the anchors, but the holds are good up there.
13
HankTheTank said on November 20th, 2009
I climbed this route this past weekend, and the anchors are still very bad. I would not even recommend lowering on them. the left one is out at least a half an inch if not more. the route is a blast to climb, they just need new gear. take a bail beaner for back up on the last bolt.
14
Jeff said on February 21st, 2010
New anchors for all you Wankers.
15
dustonian said on February 21st, 2010
Way to go, thank Jeff! This route is definitely worth the effort :)
16
vertical1 said on October 12th, 2016
Amazing route with very little down pulling. Lots of sidepulls and underclings.
17
whoneedsfeet said on August 20th, 2017
Great climb, smiled all the way up minus the cussIng, bitching, and crying.
18
[email protected] said on October 26th, 2017
2 no hands and no show stopper moves puts this thing at easy for the grade