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COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Jailbird

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at The Zoo

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4.
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Chimp 5.10a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: John Bronaugh, Tina Bronaugh in 1992
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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15 feet left of the previous line is another slab line carrying the same theme of hard at the bottom and easy at the top. Climb a low angled slab to reach a small overhang just right of a crack. Step onto the face and shift around on small edges to gain larger hold for the remainder of the line.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.32 stars (74 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (72 votes)

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9 comments {add your own comments}
1
SCIN said on April 8th, 2003
This route is actually about 50 feet past the dirt ramp.
2
Captain Bad Beta said on October 4th, 2005
This was really fun... I remember the first bolt being very high; even out of stick clip range. It had a really thin crux which felt really good.
3
Josephine said on May 18th, 2008
i have a 16 foot stick clip and couldn't reach it with that. it is possible to scramble up a bit and have your partner hand up the clip if you really want it clipped. i thought the run outs were a bit heady. probably wouldn't have been bad if my leg would have stopped shaking! :-)
4
Josephine said on May 18th, 2008
i have a 16 foot stick clip and couldn't reach it with that. it is possible to scramble up a bit and have your partner hand up the clip if you really want it clipped. i thought the run outs were a bit heady. probably wouldn't have been bad if my leg would have stopped shaking! :-)
5
Lander said on May 19th, 2008
i didn't think this felt any harder than put me in the zoo. it might be even easier.
6
Rollo said on July 13th, 2008
Fun slab climbing down low into easier stuff for the second half of the climb. The roof is practically bypassed on the left.
7
Dman said on December 30th, 2008
a great easy route really fun crimpy climbing
8
gripster said on October 21st, 2009
pretty easy route, good warm-up.
9
norrab said on September 28th, 2014
I think this is the same difficulty as Put Me In The Zoo, but higher quality: there are actually feet on the slab section of this one, and where there aren't, there are full-pad crimps that you can put your full body weight on to pull up (as opposed to sketchy nothing on the other). The high first bolt is not stick clippable, but you don't need to, there is a jug about 1 foot left and down from the bolt, with good feet.