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adventerous arete beautiful bouldery classic confusing contrived crimpy dihedral dynamic exposed fingers fists fun hands juggy long offwidth pile pinches pockets pumpy runout scary shady sharp short slopey steep stout sunny technical vertical

One Brick Shy

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at The Zoo

 Monkey in the Middle

8.
+0
0 votes

Geezers Go Sport 5.11b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: John Bronaugh, Stacy Temple in 1992
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the next bolted line located 25 feet left of One Brick Shy. Pull on comfortable pinches, pockets, and knobs up the overhanging face. Save some juice for the finish. It's recommended to place a medium sized cam in the first large ledge to protect the runout from the second to the third bolt.
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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3.86 stars (80 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (69 votes)

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Comments

50 comments {add your own comments}
1
tbwilsonky said on June 15th, 2004
groundfall potential on third clip.
2
jlu said on August 22nd, 2004
9 bolts before the anchors. requires a few leaps of faith to go from bolt to bolt, a true pumpy marathon
3
chriss said on October 2nd, 2005
Do this as a mixed route, or its an R sport route. Bring a 1 and/or .75 camalot with you.
4
belay slave said on October 3rd, 2006
I almost shat myself on the first ledge when I realized I forgot a cam and there is ground fall potential. Pumpy route but a lot of fun.
5
krampus said on December 29th, 2006
Have you ever had a well placed quick draw randomly fall off a bolt? I have and it ruined my onsite.
6
Stewy911 said on December 29th, 2006
I watched one of my friends to the same thing....it was above 3/5ths of the way up the route
7
mpittdawg said on June 1st, 2009
Fun route. Harder than the 11b next to it.
8
Saxman said on June 11th, 2009
Last bolt to the anchors gets wet in the rain but is still climbable. Going to the third bolt is jugs and plates. No cam is needed unless you are new to the grade.
9
michaelarmand said on June 14th, 2009
Great climb! Take some long slings or deal with bad rope drag....
10
michaelarmand said on June 15th, 2009
I forgot to mention one of the anchor bolts is loose and moves when pulled....they should be replaced...which is odd because the rest of the bolts look fine....
11
dnietosi said on June 14th, 2010
I dont get why that bolt is missing, the route is fun, hitting the ground is not.
12
Jeff said on July 12th, 2010
Did not get these anchors today. Behind the nice patina is more sand than on Myrtle Beach. Have holes drilled and will come back one of these days and put in glueins.
13
twan said on October 11th, 2010
Super fun route. Not sure about the 11b though. It's pretty much just a long jug haul I thought, and I skipped the cam. Very good route though.
14
climb2core said on April 4th, 2011
This things really needs another bolt just before the ledge. Every year more and more people get hurt in the Red and this is an accident just waiting to happen. it is a 25 ft. run out 40 ft high, so you deck if you fall. The bolt above the ledge requires you to step up and make 1 move to hang a draw. Considering the sand on the ledge and the choss in your hand, doesn't matter how strong a climber you are, something can break. It is actually a really good route and would see more traffic...
15
chriss said on April 5th, 2011
Climb2core, I thought the same thing a year ago when I got on it. I am not concerned about the difficulty, but by the quality of the choss while you are making the next clip. By saxman's reasoning, no rope is needed .... unless your new to the grade.
16
Anonymous said on July 8th, 2011
Had to bail after the second, new to the grade to hike the run out. Would love to climb again with a extra bolt placed or even help place it.
17
Anonymous said on July 8th, 2011
Why not just place a cam like the FA intended?
18
climb2core said on July 11th, 2011
Because I am a sport climber not carrying gear to a sport climbing crag. Why not add the bolt to give the climb the same sporty feel as all the other climbs on the wall... like Pulling Pockets that was retro bolted at Roadside.
19
Anonymous said on July 11th, 2011
Very well said c2c, plus maybe its just me but I personally don't feel like spending 50 or so dollars on a piece of gear to climb one route. I'd rather buy quicks and beer with that money.
20
Anonymous said on July 12th, 2011
Predictable replies.
21
Anonymous said on July 12th, 2011
Of course they are predictable. Everybody loves arguing when being anonymous is an option. I say we agree to disagree and let it end at that.
22
pawilkes said on July 13th, 2011
growing a pair doesn't cost anything...just saying
23
climb2core said on July 13th, 2011
Says the guy who once told me that he would recommend buying a stick clip (for the first bolt, mind you) when climbing at Red Rocks because he fell and hurt his knee. Just sayin...
24
vertical1 said on July 13th, 2011
Not bad from second to third. There are tons of routes with decking potential at the third bolt if you blow a clip (Reliquary for example). Like Saxman said above, only scary if you are breaking into the grade (10d/11a)
25
Jeff said on August 21st, 2011
New glue in chain anchors. Thanks for the help Dru!
26
Dmack said on August 21st, 2011
Thanks Jeff!!!! A 0.5 cam in the runout works best!!!
27
EricDorsey said on March 19th, 2012
I carried a .5 cam with me thinking that you would put it in somewhere on that big ledge.... Turns out the best spot is before the ledge about 5 feet above the bolt you just clipped. It would still be a big fall if you blew it trying to clip that next bolt. Fun climb though, I agree another bolt makes sense.
28
Spikeddem said on April 1st, 2012
A little note on the G/PG/PG-13/R/X rating system: It is important to incorporate the likelihood of a fall during the runout. The runout is over something like 5.4 ground. Moreover, even if you do fall, you won't hit the ground unless you fall in the middle of clipping. I'm 5' 9" and although I could clip from a hands free ledge, I had to do half of a move to hang the draw. Rock quality would be my only concern while hanging the draw, but I'm pretty sure it's solid in there. Probably scarier for shorter folk when hanging/clipping the draw. (Shorter than me).
29
Anonymous said on May 9th, 2012
i've climbed this route probably 8 times. i never thought the 3-4 bolt spacing was an issue until last time. still loose choss on the ledge, still many thin extended ledges going to the ledge, and not a completely trivial stance to clip the 4th. i will bring a couple of cams next time, but definitely worth it-
30
pigsteak said on September 27th, 2012
Ill rebolt this and add a bolt in the next year or so...the bolt line needs straightened out and that runout is plain jacked. the zoo is on private land and I am sure the landowner would not take a liking to those sport rappellers getting hurt on his cliff.....
31
Annea said on October 1st, 2012
This route is awesome, and there's a great spot for a .5 cam in the vertical crack to the left of the obvious jug just below the first ledge. But sure a bolt would be nice for people without cams.
32
Anonymous said on April 15th, 2013
14 other routes to choose from at this cliff, if too scared to commit pick another route. i say no added bolt. before long every route anyone is scared on will get a bolt and then where's the adventure. plenty of routes to choose from. sack up or move on. people deck from anchors, first bolt, third bolt, etc. just be smart and know your limits.
33
Anonymous said on April 15th, 2013
Spice and adventure is great and all... but should it really involve unavoidable decking if you fall not by human error? Add to that this is private land with an owner that may change his position about letting gumballs climb all over his land if someone happens to die on it. BTW, you can get that "adventure" feeling on any of those climbs. Bolt clipping is optional.
34
grigri said on October 27th, 2014
There is a new glue in by the crack below the first ledge to protect the run out as of 10/25/2014. No need for any trad gear now. This is relatively new too as I was there probably 2 weeks prior and there was no bolt there. Additionally, some bolts have been reposition to make it easier or safer to climb this route. Great job with the glue-ins whoever did that. Appreciate it.
35
DrRockso said on October 31st, 2014
I am in the process of rebolting this, as the previous comment stated, trad gear is no longer necessary. The bolt count is now 10. -Erik
36
Anonymous said on November 1st, 2014
Oh god, shit storm arriving soon.
37
Anonymous said on November 1st, 2014
correction bolt count will be back to nine very soon.
38
DrRockso said on November 1st, 2014
Oh? Are you taking out the first bolt? I agree it is kind of unnecessary and adds rope drag.
39
Chiyram said on November 2nd, 2014
Gonna chop a perfectly good bolt on a climb that needed to be rebolted? Dumb ass. It's far better now, less rope drag and way safer.
40
DrRockso said on February 9th, 2015
Updated with SS glue-ins 2/8/2015. Bolt count remains 9. Thanks ASCA.
41
dustonian said on February 9th, 2015
Nice Erik... great work man, thanks!
42
dustonian said on May 22nd, 2015
This route is awesome and substantially improved with the rebolt... great work guys, thanks!!
43
Anonymous said on May 22nd, 2015
I'm curious why this needed the extra bolt added? Nobody has died on it yet and if you don't feel comfy or have a cam then move on to another route. Hopefully y'all can get to bolting fortress and long wall because I don't have any cams and I dont wanna die trying to climb a route.
44
Chiyram said on May 22nd, 2015
There are no bolts added. Just moved a little bit. Don't know why you would want to carry one piece of gear for a sport route. The rebolting makes a lot more sense. Thanks for the rebolt. This one needed it!
45
Anonymous said on May 23rd, 2015
Its private land with a tenuous relationship. Having someone die there might harm that, as well as not be too good of deal for the person that needlessly decked
46
Anonymous said on May 23rd, 2015
With the huge number of gum balls around here it's surprising no one has dirt napped.
47
anticlmber said on May 23rd, 2015
Warning! Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport in which severe injuries or death may occur. Your stupidity may increase the danger. When climbing you can only rely on your skill, training, experience and conditioning. If you have any doubts as to your ability to safely climb any route in this website, do not try it. I walked by this route for a few years because of the runout and lack of cam/lead head/etc. there's plenty out there to climb. Poor Darwin rolls over every time an idiot is pandered to. Nobody has died or been hurt on it in the 17 years ive been calling the place home. More ppl have unfortunately been hurt or killed on routes that were "safe" yet nobody does shit to those routes because its all up to the climber or it was belayer error whatever. Guess John and the old guard just had bigger balls and more sense.
48
Anonymous said on May 23rd, 2015
Nice soapbox.
49
Anonymous said on May 23rd, 2015
At least I wear my name tag on my soapbox ya cunt. Sorry if I thought I was allowed to share my thoughts just like everyone else.feels compelled to now excuse me while I get back to fisting your fathers bloody asshole- jr
50
whoneedsfeet said on June 10th, 2015
Hey left three draws on this climb yesterday. Had to bail due to the waterfall at the top. Went back today and they were gone, really like to get them back please.