Geezers Go Sport

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at The Zoo

Animal Husbandry


9.
+1
1 votes

Monkey in the Middle 5.11a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Stacy Temple, John Bronaugh in 1992
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the next bolted line 25 left of Geezers Go Sport. Crank through the steep beginning section on pockets to a slightly overhanging headwall.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.97 stars (122 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (101 votes)

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Submitted by: kentucky
Date: May 27th, 2013

Comments

1
chriss said on October 17th, 2005
very fun climb. Good movement and no choss.
2
Meadows said on July 5th, 2006
Lots-o-fun!
3
Anonymous said on July 10th, 2006
My first 11 redpoint. :-)
4
JR said on October 8th, 2007
From bottom to top I enjoyed this route more than its neighbors. I felt like this route had notably better movement, rock quality, consistency etc.
5
krampus said on April 21st, 2008
Best warm up at the zoo
6
Anonymous said on May 26th, 2009
wow. while i need to re climb the other 11's nearby this one is at least as good as the torrent 11's.
7
calvinivlac said on May 26th, 2009
Wasp nest at the last bolt. Tread lightly, or be prepared to whip.
8
mpittdawg said on June 1st, 2009
Best 11 at the wall.
9
Saxman said on June 10th, 2009
Stays dry in the rain.
10
tbwilsonky said on June 18th, 2009
really fun route. the wasps are between the 7th and 8th bolt.
11
langvd said on July 9th, 2009
No hard moves, just pumpy. 10c/d
12
Lil Josh said on August 30th, 2009
Fun movement... I think there is a human sized block about to pop off about half way up, I put a small x on it. A spider the size of Texas followed me down the entire route as I cleaned it, and there is a tree (widow maker) two breaths from falling from the top. Plus, the anchors are such a drag (pun intended) that my rope is now kinkier than a spring in a pogo stick. In a nutshell, I loved it!
13
Jeff said on July 11th, 2010
New anchors.
14
Anonymous said on April 23rd, 2011
awesome route, more like .11c if you ask me
15
Jeff said on April 23rd, 2011
Anti-spray!?!?
16
vertical1 said on April 24th, 2011
Compared to what other 11c?
17
climb2core said on July 9th, 2012
Fun climb. Lots of opportunity to shake out and recover. There is a relatively small tree that has collapsed in towards the wall by this route. While you can climb it with the tree there without any real problems, you would probably end up with a few sticks up you butt if you fell just above it. If you see this post and are heading out that way, wouldn't hurt to bring a small saw and trim the tree back a bit. If you do, please post. If not, I will try to remember a saw the next time I get out there... which may be a while.
18
Willy said on March 16th, 2013
Didn't see a tree anywhere in the way. Fun pumpy jug haul. Not for the enduro challenged
19
Chiyram said on April 15th, 2013
Start is pretty pumpy, then slightly overhung for the rest. No hard moves at all, just fight the pump to the end.
20
Anonymous said on July 22nd, 2013
watch out for the wasps just left of the anchors...I didn't see them until I was up close and personal to them and got stung a couple of times.
21
craig.smith1 said on August 28th, 2014
Excellent route. I wouldn't argue with a 5 star rating on this.
22
bcrock said on September 22nd, 2014
Super fun route
23
zabadoo222 said on April 13th, 2015
The quick link on the right anchor is getting a little worn. I was too pumped to see if it was getting sharp.
24
climb2core said on April 13th, 2015
I am a bit confused. You mentioned right anchor... which would have me believe you were at the chains at the top of the route. Were you too pumped to clip and whipped, not returning to the anchors?
25
Anonymous said on April 13th, 2015
this route is great! felt pretty classic for the grade. Clayton.
26
zabadoo222 said on April 14th, 2015
I understand your confusion. I was at the chains but to pumped to lift my fat butt up enough to lift my gear (quick draw/rope to rappell) to see the worn part of the quick link. I could have looked if I waited but we didn't have a wrench with us anyway. I am still pretty green so I could be wrong but I thought I would report it and let the folks who know more than me take a look. I saw close to a dozen anchors throughout the weekend and none of them looked as bad as this one. It was in better shape than the pictures of worn quick links on websites that are saying "don't lower of the chains". Take it for what its worth, I am admitting my noob status, but also trying to be responsible.
27
lil_reggie said on September 20th, 2018
Heads Up Y'all . Wasp nest just to the left of the anchors in the little roof crack. Got stung while going from last bolt to the chains, they was pissed off. Lil Reg ended up leaving a couple biners on the chains to get out of the danger zone. The Orkin man should be out there soon.
28
whoneedsfeet said on September 20th, 2018
I didn’t know you was such a bitch Reggie. I looked those wasps straight in their stupid fucking eyeballs and said look at me, I’m the wasp now. I’m their king.