Scar Tissue

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at The Zoo

Aviary


14.
+4
4 votes

Hippocrite 5.12a (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Eric Lowe in 1998
Length: 45ft
Bolts: 4 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
This line is locate just left of Scar Tissue. Climb a crimpy section to some big moves between huecos.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Private
Steepness:
bouldery (2) fun (2) shady (1) short (1)
Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

4.73 stars (105 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (79 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: kentucky
Date: May 27th, 2013

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 4th, 2013

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 4th, 2013

Submitted by: Basta916
Date: Jun 16th, 2009

Comments

1
Power2U said on April 9th, 2003
A hidden gem...great 12a if you are looking for a shorter one.
2
SikMonkey said on June 3rd, 2003
Way easier than Ro Shampo.
3
Anonymous said on May 24th, 2004
Way harder than Rope Shampoo. I would say this route is damn near impossible for 5 footers.
4
Anonymous said on June 3rd, 2004
Way Eiser than Ro. I have seen a 5.7 person climb this, just do a two handed dyno and not dead point
5
Roentgen Ray said on June 11th, 2004
Move for move, way harder than Ro-Sham-Poe.
6
512OW said on November 30th, 2004
The same as Row Schampowe.
7
Anonymous said on December 19th, 2004
If you're short, a direct start is getting cleaner, nice and tight (with no wobbly stone stack) So the holds get bigger with every move you make.
8
anticlmber said on December 23rd, 2004
one of the greatest in the red. 5.7 climber...two handed dyno. doesn't sound like a 5.7 move to me. one of the best "F "the grade
9
Paul3eb said on April 20th, 2005
they meant 5'7"
10
pigsteak said on September 11th, 2005
over way too soon...
11
krazykid said on October 27th, 2005
The move from the undercling is bigger than anything on Ro, but not as technical as the heel hooking crux of Ro. Shorter so it doens't take the endurance of Ro. If you close on Ro then get on Hippocrite... you'll send.
12
manny said on January 20th, 2006
Some great climbing for me those holds are simply out of this world ok so i climb on granite!!
13
TVA said on July 7th, 2006
4 beach ball size huecos- one on top of another!!! A boulderer's dream route. a midgit's nightmare.
14
whatahutch said on September 17th, 2007
The starting "jug" broke on my buddy when he pulled up on it. It was his first try and he fell off dramatically and broke his toe on a boulder he kicked while trying not to eat dirt. He was out for the count from there on. You can still do it with out the jug though, it just takes a little more precision, or power.
15
caribe said on October 7th, 2007
I left draws on this bad boy today for everyone's climbing pleasure.
16
MOB said on October 22nd, 2007
YO, there is currently a bat residing in a small 2-3 finger pocket left of the 3rd bolt [ between Hueco and big jug on the right, so you don't really need the hold.] Don't know how long he/she'll stick around, just a heads up, be considerate!
17
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2007
Almost got the onsite without any stick clipping nancyness, but the moves up top were just too huge. Must find more power...
18
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2007
The route is like 4 moves and you didn't do 2 of them. How is that "almost onsiting"?
19
512OW said on November 18th, 2007
Maybe you should have stick clipped. Then you wouldn't have to do any of that "work the moves" nancyness...
20
Anonymous said on November 19th, 2007
Ya working moves is pretty nancy. I usually onsight everything up to 14c. I bet if I had stick clipped I would have had it. Thanks for the advice. Also, I'll try to do it in 4 moves next time, maybe I was just doing too many moves.
21
JR said on November 21st, 2007
Someone. You accidently typed 14c.
22
dbarless said on March 25th, 2008
someone didnt "accidentally" type 14c...someone is a treasure trove of RRG climbing wisdom and full of steep sandstone pocket-pulling and crimping high stepping mastery...it is SO unreasonable of you JR to assume that someone as accomplished as someone couldnt onsite everything up to 14c!!!!!
23
caribe said on April 9th, 2008
Well apparently the lifetime of draws on a route is less than a year. Some stole my draws.
24
pigsteak said on April 10th, 2008
hence the route name caribe....climbers are scum....wait, it must have been a hiker.
25
Anonymous said on June 3rd, 2009
This can be really hard if you are short...jumping out of an undercling is not easy.
26
Sco Bro said on September 20th, 2009
The bolt at the long dead point has a little bit of a spin to it. I think it's the third bolt. The bolts are showing some age, but they still seem to hold a fall.
27
whatahutch said on September 21st, 2009
Last time I was on it the hanger on That bolt was starting to bevel out where so many people have fallen at that point. Kinda scary. (By bevel I mean the bottom of the inside of the loop is bending outward and down). It might not be as bad, since it has been a while, as I am making it out to be. If I was there to change the bolt out I would change that hanger out too.
28
gripster said on October 21st, 2009
3rd and 4th bolt are bad on this thing. 3rd bolt is very scary. I reported it to team suck and offered to pay for new hardware and beer (those guys work for beer you know).
29
Brentucky said on November 4th, 2009
Agreed, if you can send Ro you can work and send this one too. As someone with a "just large enough gas tank" for both I can say they require just about the same amount of fuel. Frikkin sweet climb!
30
Meadows said on April 23rd, 2010
This route and its neighbor, Scar Tissue are awesome and quality routes.
31
Anonymous said on November 25th, 2010
The beginning felt a tad sharp but maybe I need to stop being such a wuss. The top involves big moves but I'm 5'5" and I had no problem doing all the moves without any need for crazy dynos. Just a couple of deadpoints from high foot. Excellent climb! Definitely harder than Ro in my opinion
32
Anonymous said on August 30th, 2011
Is the bolt replaced on this thing yet?
33
Anonymous said on September 19th, 2011
Nah, bolts are still a little sketch. I didn't take any big whips, but they held the ones I did take. They are rusting fairly badly though (bolts and hangers)
34
jaydenn said on November 2nd, 2011
Bolts are super sketch. Should have a V grade...not a YDS grade.
35
jkpugel said on March 19th, 2012
I know this has been said a few times but possibly this time might make a difference. The third bolt on this climb (and the rest of them) is in pretty bad shape, rusted, spinning, etc. I would replace it if I knew how and had the equipment, but I don't... What I do have is some time on weekends and money so if anyone is serious about trying to replace the old gear on this thing pm me and we'll see if we can work something out. Thanks
36
dustonian said on March 19th, 2012
If you can donate an old rope and leave it hanging from the anchor (without blocking people's ability to use the anchor for descent), someone will get out and rebolt it in the next few weeks.
37
CLIMBTRAD said on March 21st, 2012
This route will be getting rebolted this coming Sunday..please understand if we have it closed for the day..
38
CLIMBTRAD said on March 26th, 2012
Route rebolted with big beefy 5/8 glue in wave bolts.. i will be back next week to remove old gear
39
dustonian said on March 26th, 2012
Nice Patrick, great work! Somebody buy this man several beers... and do NOT lower directly through glue-in bolts! Use a biner or quicklink of you have to bail.
40
Jeff said on March 26th, 2012
Patrick, you're a machine! You are probably not told nearly often enough, but your tireless work is appreciated by many. Thanks!
41
CLIMBTRAD said on March 26th, 2012
Big thanks to jkpugel who dropped 70 bucks for glue ,tips and links for this route.also big thanks to Dustin for letting me use your drill..
42
CLIMBTRAD said on April 2nd, 2012
Warning!! I went back out to remove the old gear.. It seems we may have had some glue seeping out of the first 2 bolts.. You can see inside the hole a little.. they are strong I know I fell on them all morning.. I will be back out soon to fix this.. I left the old bolts so you can clip what ever you want untill I fix it. Sorry
43
CLIMBTRAD said on April 8th, 2012
Old bolts removed.. New bolts good to go. Please do not lower thrue glue in bolts!! Leave a bail biner if you must bail..
44
der uber said on May 8th, 2012
This route is super good climbing and lots of fun. Short, but makes upfor it with its steep and intense nature. Plus you get off the beaten path, and have another cool route right next to it.
45
Anonymous said on September 14th, 2015
There is a flying squirrel nest in one of the lower huecos on this route, you can easily avoid them but they will likely jump out while you're climbing or let you stand on their head to reach the next hold if you're 5'7".
46
[email protected] said on November 19th, 2016
kneebar in the hueco near bolt 2 is the only way i got this climb, thanks for the beta Jay!