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Maypop

This route is located in the Gray's Branch Region at Left Flank

 Infectious

7.
+0
0 votes

Brother Stair 5.9 (Sport) **

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard in 1992
Length: 40ft
Bolts: 4 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the next corner 25 feet right of Maypop. Begin with a tough start then continue up the arete on somewhat sandy holds.
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.52 stars (131 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9 (93 votes)

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Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Jun 20th, 2011

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Jun 20th, 2011

Submitted by: nrd2052
Date: Apr 4th, 2011

Submitted by: caribe
Date: Aug 16th, 2007

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

32 comments {add your own comments}
1
vic said on October 22nd, 2003
Worth doing... and again.
2
jlu said on November 23rd, 2003
good route with a nice boulder move beginning. opens up lots of options once you get a top rope set
3
mazzystr said on April 7th, 2004
i liked it....i liked it ahhhh-lawt
4
Anonymous said on April 15th, 2004
try "brother stairmaster", start in the cave to the left and boulder out into the start. Fun, makes the climb much harder.
5
dj_ax said on June 4th, 2004
yes... a recommended route.
6
pianomahnn said on June 15th, 2004
Eh, not great. The bolts seem to be placed rather odd. Oh well. ONSIGHTFLASH4LYFE!!!
7
Paul3eb said on April 5th, 2005
this is quite possibly the worst route at the red. no joke. i don't understand why it hasn't been blown off the cliff face. it detracts from everything around it. not to mention it's like gumby flypaper..
8
Paul3eb said on May 24th, 2005
it's been several weeks since i reminded people this route is absolutely worthless and pitiful.. i feel bad that those people who have ticked it will never have that five minutes of their life back.
9
tbwilsonky said on September 2nd, 2005
it's seven minutes if you stop to shake out
10
K-Dawg said on September 29th, 2005
I have to admit, I shake my head and ask myself "why" whenever I find myself at the beginning of this route. I's just not for me, but still better than a day at work.
11
Captain Bad Beta said on October 3rd, 2005
Giant rest holds... I found the start to be the crux. It was like the ground washed out under a 5.9 and you have to jump to start it. Anyways, once you get on the wall it's pretty straight forward.
12
lemaster* said on November 2nd, 2005
My first lead climb in the red
13
caribe said on May 24th, 2006
this is a nice route, but it should be extended by 20 or 30 feet. why does it stop where it does?
14
soccerfast007 said on November 16th, 2006
I enjoyed the start and majority of the holds/feet, a little sandy in spots, but was good leading experience in my case. everyone is entitled to their opinion, but i feel this route has been unduly ripped.
15
dbarless said on May 21st, 2007
Definitely not the most entertaining route, but like K-Dawg, said, better than a day at work. The first few moves are nothing more than some bouldery shenanigans, the rest of the climb is decent at best, just one more to add to the tick list.
16
Yasmeen said on May 21st, 2007
It's actually much, much worse than a day at work. And unless you want your score to drop, you won't add this route to your tick list.
17
allah said on May 23rd, 2007
best 9 in the gorge i think, ton of fun
18
bcombs said on May 23rd, 2007
Yasmeen, does this route have a negative value?
19
Yasmeen said on May 23rd, 2007
bcombs: only in my heart.
20
bcombs said on May 23rd, 2007
;-)
21
rhunt said on August 17th, 2007
this last pic posted by caribe really shows the beauty of this route, thanks caribe. I can't wait to get on the 4 star route again.
22
caribe said on August 28th, 2007
My 12 year old daughter on lead looked up at the second to the last bolt from the anchors, considered the real estate between it and the last bolt and said, "that is scary!" She went on anyway. She faced the demon and lives within. She did so of her own volition. She was ecstatic after she cleaned it and her feet hit the ground. It was a life time experience for her. I think this was her first real lead. The pic of my little girl working out the moves with her cheeks full of air and looking down at her feet moves me greatly. I am glad that you appreciated it. Thanks
23
woman said on August 28th, 2007
Congrats to your daughter!
24
ScrmnPeeler said on January 4th, 2008
I climbed it in '95 when the 3rd bolt was missing. My bro George was on lead, and if he fell while clipping the anchor, I was planning on running and jumping over the hill to hopefully keep him from decking. Good thing he didn't fall. We still talk about that day.
25
V10Mike said on April 26th, 2008
Another one of those routes where you can make it hard or easy. Do the standard start and meander up big holds and the arete. Or stay right of the bolts the entire way for a more technial 5.10ish climb. Or boulder in from the left (the most fun option) at V3ish!
26
uberwhipper said on June 10th, 2008
I don't get the negativity. It's not the most inspiring route, but I had fun.
27
louisville_climber said on August 4th, 2008
fun...the beginning is the hardest part.
28
kisor740 said on October 28th, 2008
allot of left hand work being a left side arete kind of neat
29
Dman said on January 24th, 2009
cool if the other routes are takin
30
hypro said on July 30th, 2009
5.9 if you stay right.
31
swj said on May 9th, 2011
getting on this route after a hard rain definitely makes it harder... stays pretty wet. Especially the start.
32
Episketch said on April 4th, 2016
I found myself at the base of this climb at the end of a day. I'd heard a lot of negative things about it and expected to hate it. The start was hard and a bit slick and there were a few sandy holds. To my surprise by the time I was clipping the chains, I was having fun. It's certainly not a classic, but I thought it was an ok moderate.