COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

The "start" of the crag

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Motherlode

Trad Sucker

0 votes

One-eyed Willy Up the Back 5.11c (Sport) **

First Ascent: Keith Moll in 1994
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Buckeye Buttress: From the end of the approach for Buckeye Buttress, walk left and scramble through some large boulders about 50 feet to the left side of an obvious, arching overhang. Climb just left of the arete, pull over the roof and climb pockets at the top.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Private

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Quality Consensus

2.29 stars (24 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (19 votes)

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Sorry, no pictures to be had. {want to add a photo?}


Andrew said on April 28th, 2003
This route sucks
dj_ax said on June 5th, 2004
Thought it was 11b when I got on it... later heard it was 11d... either way... I couldn't get my fingers in any of the many tiny pockets near the top. The longest whipper I ever took. (at least a 30 footer) and that damn tree inches from my ass. Yeah... pass this one up.
Gaar said on October 4th, 2005
The route that the red forgot!
ray said on November 27th, 2005
Cool moves in the beginning. I liked it. Great warmup.
pawilkes said on November 6th, 2009
I'm with Ray on this one. The start has great thoughtful moves. really liked it.
caribe said on February 14th, 2011
Yesterday I got on it for the first time. I loved the small holes (I have big fingers) and movement. It is a great warm up. I came off the top too on my first go.
Brentucky said on February 14th, 2011
great warmup my ass, caribe. i heard your girly screams from that thing after you had already warmed up. :-)