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This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Torrent Falls - LIMITED ACCESS

Us and Them

0 votes

Cordelia 5.8 (Sport) **

First Ascent: Unknown in 2002
Length: 0ft
Bolts: 0 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the overbolted slab route to the right of Dream of a Bee
Moves: Slab
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Torrent Falls

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Quality Consensus

2.51 stars (70 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8+ (50 votes)

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Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Aug 28th, 2011

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Aug 28th, 2011

Submitted by: Sketch
Date: Jul 11th, 2006


LittleMonkeyMojo said on July 22nd, 2003
How did this get 2 stars? Also, what's the deal with the anchors at top being put in a bass-akwards way? Route needs 9 draws, plus anchors.
vic said on August 12th, 2003
Nice balancing act on this route. I would give it two stars - even though the anchors are sketchy.
Pimp said on October 22nd, 2003
The name of this one is mark's daughter's names in french, or something like that, I really don't know it
merrick said on November 4th, 2003
the name is cordelia or something like that. i thought it was pretty fun but more like 5.6
chriss said on November 16th, 2003
I agree, this route does not deserve two stars. Don't waste your time.
philip171 said on May 4th, 2004
Its a good lead for starters in lead climbing, also a good warm up, but majorly over bolted, but good for learning how to place gear.
tbwilsonky said on July 25th, 2004
I thought it was good.
haas said on August 11th, 2004
way too many bolts!
Zspider said on August 25th, 2004
I whined the whole way up. Slabs make me nervous.
diggum said on March 21st, 2005
Dink Dink said on March 31st, 2005
The worst route I have ever climbed. Two weeks in a row I walked by it and someone was being helped down with broken legs. Bolts are so close together really watch the z-clipping.
Anonymous said on April 11th, 2005
For some reason I doubt that people broke their leg on this route two weeks in a row. But it may quite possibly be the worst route at torrent.
K-Dawg said on September 27th, 2005
I thought that I was starting to like slabs. I could not be more wrong. I couldn't get my head into this climb at all.
Captain Bad Beta said on October 4th, 2005
Not sure this was even a 5.8... a ton of rest spots in the first half. The end is fairly straight forward
Feanor007 said on October 23rd, 2005
quite possibly the worst route i've ever seen, there is absolutly nothing worthwhile on this climb, z-clipped twice 'cause bolts were so close
pigsteak said on March 6th, 2006
if you z clip, you are just a dumb nut. quit blaming the route, and pay attention. not a bad route, not a classic. if you think this is the worst route at the Red, then you haven't climbed here much. just another average route. nothing less.
caribe said on March 14th, 2006
I am with pigsteak why z clip? If you think there are too many bolts just skip a few. The reason people get hurt on climbs like this is because the people that climb Cornelia are green. We put the route up for my son who went climbing outdoors for the frist time. He did not have a lot of luck today, but he completed this one. I am glad it was there for him. Can't you people do anything else but bitch? Can't you find the good in something?
J-Rock said on March 14th, 2006
Well said caribe. When we climbed it we skipped quite a few of the bolts. Besides then we could later brag to our friends about how brave we were to run it out on such a short and easy slab. If you z-clip then you're not paying enough attention. These people might be better off trying a sport that requires a lower level of awareness.
randomboulder said on March 14th, 2006
My friend broke her foot leading this route in summer 2004. Its an interesting route with lots of bolts, but still use extra caution as always when on slabs.
Ascentionist said on March 14th, 2006
Since everyone else is putting in their two cents...people would whine that the route is unsafe if it had fewer bolts, they whine now because it has too many. Maybe we should chop it and let each person bolt it as they see fit just before they climb it. The stipulation would be that you have to chop your own bolts after you finish. The fact of the matter is: bolts don't necessarily make a route more or less safe. The climber is responsible for that.
Feanor007 said on May 2nd, 2006
since i can't edit my post, still don't like the route, but after more climbing, have realized the z-clipping was my fault.
Josephine said on September 17th, 2007
tree @ the base has been removed.
Wes said on November 13th, 2008
Not as bad as people say, but not the best slab in the red.
Brentucky said on August 4th, 2009
i'm with wes, i don't see why all the fuss. it made me think so i kinda liked it in a way.
Barnacle Ben said on November 8th, 2009
Yes, there are plenty of bolts. Use your own judgment in which ones to skip or clip. As for the route itself, it is a good and solid 5.8 slab. Good rock, gets good morning/winter sun. Couple of balancy and committing moves for a 5.8, thought it was more like 5.8+. Fun overall.
Rollo said on October 3rd, 2010
8+, 3stars. Thought provoking slab with good movement. I'd say the people complaining were upset they didn't walk this thing... probably looked stupid in front of their friends that don't climb that they took to there looking for something easy for them to do.
Rooky said on April 3rd, 2011
I thought it was awesome. 3 stars all the way!