Buff the Wood

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Motherlode

Fall of the Anticlimber (open project)


8.
+0
0 votes

Golden Touch 5.13b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: David Hume in 1995
Length: 45ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This line moves up through the striking line just right of Buff the Wood.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.25 stars (12 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.13b (9 votes)

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Comments

1
allah said on October 10th, 2003
how could someone give this route 5 stars????? its chipped!!!!!!!!!!!!! therefore the route dosent deserve 5 stars
2
Anonymous said on June 4th, 2004
ummm, 'cause it's still fucking rad?!!!
3
dlove said on November 6th, 2004
kenny shut up, you're just upset that half the crew did it before you and with less goes, stop being such a little bitch. quit being jeremy's bitch step up boy, STEP UP!!!!
4
allah said on February 26th, 2005
Dlove that was when I was weak, I can do that pile on call now. and it is still not worth 5 stars
5
Anonymous said on April 19th, 2005
yaaaaay!! you're my hero!!! runnin laps on .12d - good for you, you stud.
6
allah said on April 19th, 2005
I take that as a compliment thanks.
7
Anonymous said on April 20th, 2005
i know you do. you're welcome little buddy.
8
Anonymous said on April 28th, 2005
such subtle sarchasm....nice.
9
Anonymous said on June 16th, 2005
who says its chipped? if it is, anyone know the history?
10
Anonymous said on June 16th, 2005
who says its chipped? if it is, anyone know the history?
11
Anonymous said on June 18th, 2005
i dont know about chipped, the edge at the crux is glued
12
Anonymous said on June 23rd, 2005
it is chipped. it would have been alot....burlier.....had 'someone' not done that.
13
Anonymous said on July 19th, 2005
which hold is chipped?
14
Anonymous said on July 19th, 2005
pocket right in the middle of the crux down low. if you are tall, you use the right hand undercling/sidepull and make a looong move to it w/ your left hand. it's pretty obvious if you go and really look....there is actually a nice natural thumb-catch on it too....they picked a good spot for the chip-job....although it still would have gone - but prob almost a full grade harder.
15
Anonymous said on July 29th, 2005
i think that you meant to say it would have been "berlier" if someone didn't chip it.
16
SCIN said on January 7th, 2011
Named after a massage parlor in Lexington.
17
Next Level said on October 20th, 2014
This 50', gently overhanging pitch with generally easy clips is now wearing a mixture of steel and aluminum draws. This one really is easy to hang and clean yourself!
18
Raiden said on January 2nd, 2019
The higher right hand crimp in the crux is broken. The climber in the photo from 2005 has their right hand on it in the photo. The good thumb catch is still there but the entire top of the crimp broke, leaving a bad sloping edge and likely eliminating that beta. Good luck short folks.
19
Anonymous said on January 3rd, 2019
maybe some aggressive brushing is in order...although we wouldn't want to tarnish a pristine all natural route...oh wait
20
Anonymous said on March 13th, 2019
Still goes with sloppy crimp as a short guy. As of 2/12/19
21
Anonymous said on March 15th, 2019
Interesting to read the comments criticizing this route because of the enhanced hold. I am NOT defending the practice at all, but does everyone realize that arguably the most famous and most classic 13a in the RRG has an OBVIOUS drilled hold?
22
Anonymous said on March 15th, 2019
hmmm which one?