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Fall of the Anticlimber (open project)

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Motherlode

 Overdrive

9.
+0
0 votes

Heart Shaped Box 5.12c (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Brian McCray in 1995
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This line starts about 15 feet right of Golden Touch on a ledge. Scramble up the ledge to make the first clip. Crank through on decent edges and make the move to the heart shaped box. Shake out and climb smaller crimps to the anchors.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.59 stars (58 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12c (54 votes)

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Submitted by: Raiden
Date: Mar 10th, 2015

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

16 comments {add your own comments}
1
the lurkist said on February 4th, 2003
12c
2
Astroman said on March 5th, 2004
An unsung hero that doesn't get the traffic it deserves.
3
climberdude99 said on August 4th, 2004
awesome route, nobody climbs this route because of the great routs next to it but you should get on this if you like good climbs
4
Anonymous said on July 17th, 2005
what if i like bad climbs?
5
Anonymous said on July 29th, 2005
what if i like ugly climbs?
6
Dhaulagiri said on June 3rd, 2006
Really fun route, perhaps I will think otherwise when I try the others on the wall?? But I doubt it, fun climbing...
7
Dhaulagiri said on June 3rd, 2006
Really fun route, perhaps I will think otherwise when I try the others on the wall?? But I doubt it, fun climbing...
8
Anonymous said on October 24th, 2006
this and the reacharound are the best lines on this wall. stain and buff the wood are way overrated.
9
512OW said on March 2nd, 2008
Solid for the grade... and very, very good.
10
said on March 8th, 2010
SIck route!!!!! get on it... its freaking awesome!!!!!!!! one of the coolest sequences ever going to the heartshaped box......the Vulcan Pinch!!!!! Dope route
11
der uber said on July 16th, 2012
Felt harder than 12c. Long hard section in middle and real tough finish.
12
pigsteak said on October 16th, 2012
can the static line guarding the anchors be removed from this?
13
tyler.yarbrough said on March 7th, 2018
Solid c, incredible line. Don’t try in warm temps!!
14
Anonymous said on March 8th, 2018
oh really??? don't try in warm temps?? who woulda known ??? any other mega beta from the short bus private obvious?
15
Anonymous said on March 9th, 2018
Plenty of people have sent this in warm tempts. The crimps bite. I disagree with you Tyler. Nice work on the send though. The dude posted the previous comment is a fucktard
16
Anonymous said on March 23rd, 2018
oh really???? people have sent a 12c at one of the most popular high end crags in the country in warm conditions? have you considered renting yourself out as belay meat , might make a buck or two if you can keep the duct tape on the pie hole