Trust in Jesus

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Motherlode

Mr. Sandy


17.
+0
0 votes

Purdy Mouth 5.12b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Hugh Loeffler in 1997
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk right from Trust in Jesus to a route that begins just right of a chimney in a corner. Begin on a ledge and move up through edges and flakes.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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4 stars (7 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12 (6 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

1
the lurkist said on February 4th, 2003
12b
2
the lurkist said on May 26th, 2006
An alternative start is to the left, laying off the corner to a line of crimps and do a traverse move back to the first bolt. I think the first bolt should be moved over to the left about a foot and a half. The anchor should definitely be moved down. I will do these two things soon. A really good route.
3
pigsteak said on April 9th, 2007
agreed..the alternate start made this route "do-able" for the aspiring 12 climber like myself...the anchors are fine..they just add some spice.
4
JR said on August 25th, 2007
The anchors aren't bad. A pretty stopper starting sequence. But it goes. The rest of the route is amazing.
5
dustonian said on May 10th, 2010
Awesome route Hugh! I couldn't do the start so weaseled in from the left. It seemed a bit sketch with the bolt where it is now. The anchor isn't terrible but it is a bit heinous to clip where it is now. Some long chain could fix this pretty easily. Would you mind if made these changes?
6
One-Fall said on August 22nd, 2012
Great boulder problem on crimps leads to fantastic movement on solid stone. I thought the bolt placements were good, but they are pretty rusted out.
7
nswelton said on November 26th, 2014
The routes in this section are waaaay more fun that those in the Buckeye. Purdue Mouth is sick!! Best and hardest of the 5.12s over here if you take the direct start going straight up on small crimps. I think it feels harder than any of the 12s on Buckeye with this start.
8
Chuckdott said on December 1st, 2014
This route is sick! Not sure why it doesn't get more love? One day when you're walking by this sparkling gem on your way to the cave, take a moment and spoil your send attempts with a deep flash pump on this tricky to read, yet solid and interesting climb.
9
horst said on May 27th, 2018
I've always wanted to get on this line...and did so today in a chalkless state with summer conditions. Shape in spots, but good climbing once I settled on using the left start...which flows fine and makes the grade doable. Straight up (my desired approached) felt as hard as the crux move on Golden Touch...so IMO, it''s definitely not 12b if you climb straight up to the first bolt. Either way, PM deserves more traffic!