The "start" of the crag

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Mariba Fork

Reach the Beach


1.
+1
1 votes

Laceration 5.4 (Trad) ****

First Ascent: John Bronaugh, Ron Snider in 1983
Length: 50ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Look for a hand sized crack splitting a slightly less than vertical and jumbly face directly beneath an overhanging orange headwall with two thin fingercracks. Climb the crack to bolted rappel anchors at the ledge.
Moves: Hands
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Unknown
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.83 stars (29 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.6 (23 votes)

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Comments

1
ynot said on May 1st, 2004
Fun route
2
z-rock said on September 18th, 2006
Its stout for a 5.4! takes good gear though.
3
z-rock said on September 18th, 2006
Its stout for a 5.4! takes good gear though.
4
climbhigh said on September 21st, 2006
best easy route in the gorge.
5
Josephine said on May 7th, 2007
the bottom was a little wet the day after a rain. got dripped on a bit. fun route, but stout for a 4 is accurate
6
Anonymous said on May 7th, 2007
Rap slings and rings in fair condition May 2007.
7
45percent said on January 16th, 2009
Fun route, awesome area.
8
The Sherpa said on June 23rd, 2009
Fun and easy, if you like hiking and getting away from the crowds I would recommend.
9
jrathfon said on October 25th, 2010
Great gear, great beginner route, great jamming, not a 4. It'd be a solid 5 or more accurarely a 6.
10
jrathfon said on October 25th, 2010
oh, aluminum rings on anchor, rap, don't lower.
11
Feanor007 said on October 2nd, 2011
what a great route at a great place. for sure best first trad lead given the combination of good climbing, good gear, and great location.
12
MarkM said on August 19th, 2012
Awesome approach! Good route for new leaders. Fun climb. Plenty of holds off the crack if you choose. Takes great gear.
13
rjackson said on September 10th, 2012
Basically, what everyone else said... Wish more of these were sprinkled all over the gorge.
14
ThoroughbredClimber said on August 10th, 2015
Nice Route. Beautiful Valley.
15
caribe said on August 16th, 2015
The fingercrack above Laceration goes. Hard 11 or moderate 12. It climbs like a sport route. Single finger rack + 3x BD#2, 2x BD#3, BD#4 at start. There is a nut on the route from which someone bailed. After whipping a few times, I switched my beta and it worked. We left tat at the top on a tree. Take some with you. This is a great little pitch!
16
caribe said on August 16th, 2015
I did not send. The crack above Laceration ... at the time I wrote the last post.
17
bbllaakke said on September 16th, 2015
Caribe, awesome you got on the crack above this route. I remember looking at it when I climbed Laceration long ago. It looks amazing from the ground. Is it worth trecking out there to get on it?
18
dustonian said on September 16th, 2015
Only if you take him with you and he gets to give out some ridiculous name
19
Patty McGee said on September 16th, 2015
if he sprays me down on point he can name it whatever he wants lol
20
Anonymous said on September 16th, 2015
You already got the spray down in his comment patty. Let's go
21
dumbidea said on May 6th, 2016
There are hornets or bees that swarm the route. I'm not sure where they came from because they showed up below me as I reached the anchors. May need a can of Raid.