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This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Mariba Fork

The Mayor

1 votes

Reach the Beach 5.9 (Trad) ****

First Ascent: John Bronaugh, Ron Snider in 1983
Length: 75ft
Gear: #2-#3 Camalots (report bad anchors)

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Walk left from Laceration to locate a handcrack splitting the face about fifteen feet up. Approach the crack by climbing a low overhang twenty feet right then traverse left along a ledge to reach the crack. Climb the splitter crack to the ledge and belay from a single bolt. Rappel from the anchors above Laceration.
Variation: Climb the pocketed face directly beneath the splitter handcrack. 5.10a R
Moves: Hands
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Unknown
adventerous (1) fun (1) fists (1) beautiful (1) long (1) hands (1) classic (1)
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4 stars (15 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9 (9 votes)

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Submitted by: Bluelopez100
Date: Oct 31st, 2010

Submitted by: Bluelopez100
Date: Oct 31st, 2010


ray said on October 26th, 2003
The direct start is very cool. Use a .75 Camalot in the horizontal.
haas said on May 18th, 2005
Sweet splitter!
climbhigh said on September 21st, 2006
the direct start is somehwhat sketch, you can place a few pieces down low in the horizontal. trust the crappy/prob wil lhold gear and go for it ! great jams to set gear about 20 feet up.
jrathfon said on October 25th, 2010
almost all 2's and 3's, some normal sized pieces for the start and end, one #4 for the topout is nice. would be stellar if it had it's own anchor so more than 1 person could lead it without all sort of shenanigans. walk across the ledge is easy, but you'll want a belay, especially for the down climb to laceration's anchors. your other option is to rap off the 1 bolt, which coincidentally cannot be backed up easily. would have made it a partial gear anchor, but there aren't many options around.
Andrew said on October 25th, 2010
Thanks for ruining my onsight
jrathfon said on October 25th, 2010
ehhhh, says 2's and 3's in the gear section. i'm adding regular rack and a #4, not too much onsight ruining there. and the anchor situation is shenanigans, not part of the route.... so sorry for ruining your cleaning/rapping onsight. i personally like a guidebook that has a bit of gear info and some sort of anchor synopsis. but what you do, is shoot a grappling hook up to the ledge, lieback the finger splitter, lunge through the roof to a hidden jug, traverse around the arete, and wind up doing a bat hang mantle to the anchors.