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Laceration

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Mariba Fork

The Mayor


2.
+1
1 votes

Reach the Beach 5.9 (Trad) ****

First Ascent: John Bronaugh, Ron Snider in 1983
Length: 75ft
Gear: #2-#3 Camalots (report bad anchors)

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Walk left from Laceration to locate a handcrack splitting the face about fifteen feet up. Approach the crack by climbing a low overhang twenty feet right then traverse left along a ledge to reach the crack. Climb the splitter crack to the ledge and belay from a single bolt. Rappel from the anchors above Laceration.
Variation: Climb the pocketed face directly beneath the splitter handcrack. 5.10a R
Moves: Hands
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Unknown
Steepness:
long (1) hands (1) classic (1) adventerous (1) fun (1) fists (1) beautiful (1)
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4 stars (15 votes)
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5.9 (9 votes)

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Submitted by: Bluelopez100
Date: Oct 30th, 2010

Submitted by: Bluelopez100
Date: Oct 30th, 2010

Comments

1
ray said on October 26th, 2003
The direct start is very cool. Use a .75 Camalot in the horizontal.
2
haas said on May 18th, 2005
Sweet splitter!
3
climbhigh said on September 21st, 2006
the direct start is somehwhat sketch, you can place a few pieces down low in the horizontal. trust the crappy/prob wil lhold gear and go for it ! great jams to set gear about 20 feet up.
4
jrathfon said on October 25th, 2010
almost all 2's and 3's, some normal sized pieces for the start and end, one #4 for the topout is nice. would be stellar if it had it's own anchor so more than 1 person could lead it without all sort of shenanigans. walk across the ledge is easy, but you'll want a belay, especially for the down climb to laceration's anchors. your other option is to rap off the 1 bolt, which coincidentally cannot be backed up easily. would have made it a partial gear anchor, but there aren't many options around.
5
Andrew said on October 25th, 2010
Thanks for ruining my onsight
6
jrathfon said on October 25th, 2010
ehhhh, says 2's and 3's in the gear section. i'm adding regular rack and a #4, not too much onsight ruining there. and the anchor situation is shenanigans, not part of the route.... so sorry for ruining your cleaning/rapping onsight. i personally like a guidebook that has a bit of gear info and some sort of anchor synopsis. but what you do, is shoot a grappling hook up to the ledge, lieback the finger splitter, lunge through the roof to a hidden jug, traverse around the arete, and wind up doing a bat hang mantle to the anchors.