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adventerous arete beautiful bouldery classic confusing contrived crimpy dihedral dynamic exposed fingers fists fun hands juggy long offwidth pile pinches pockets pumpy runout scary shady sharp short slopey steep stout sunny technical vertical

Gumby Unicorn

This route is located in the Gray's Branch Region at Left Flank

 Relaxed Atmosphere

13.
+0
0 votes

Aquaduck Pocket 5.11b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard, Rob Turan in 1991
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route is located on the the wall 60 feet right of Sex Farm which overhangs in the beginning then turns vertical. Boulder the start then continue up easier face to the anchors.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.38 stars (103 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (86 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

17 comments {add your own comments}
1
Paul3eb said on April 5th, 2005
fun little boulder problem.. too bad it's not more sustained
2
jlu said on October 4th, 2005
tricky & fun boulder start (less difficult if you stick clip the 2nd bolt), then easy climbing to the top
3
dancingkornelius said on October 12th, 2005
onsighted it and i think its a soft 11b
4
Ascentionist said on October 20th, 2005
Stick clipping the second bolt with a draw definitely makes the clip easier.
5
belay slave said on October 3rd, 2006
Pull pockets to the second bolt then climb the ladder.
6
heacocis said on November 26th, 2007
I have heard that this route is known to have sketchy anchors, but for what it is worth both anchors are spinning and one (the left) is fully rusted on its surface. The anchor bolts, however, seemed secure in the rock.
7
BMT said on June 3rd, 2008
sweet route don't think i would have made it the first time with kidney's help
8
kidney_dave said on June 3rd, 2008
i think you mean *without* nice send BMT! and yeah, the anchors are slightly sketch...but ive seen worse
9
BMT said on June 3rd, 2008
please insert without
10
allen said on May 1st, 2009
cool start
11
SeanStone said on July 3rd, 2011
Name should be changed to "Awkward-Fuck Pocket."
12
Drew said on July 21st, 2011
agreed
13
Anonymous said on July 25th, 2011
onsighted
14
Anonymous said on July 25th, 2011
Anonymous posts "onsighted". LOL, spray so subtle they don't even say who they are. Way to send Anonymous!!!
15
climb2core said on July 25th, 2011
Last comment by me... didn't mean to be anonymous making fun of anonymous :)
16
Anonymous said on May 19th, 2012
hope to send tomorrow, it's been a project for a while. might go down there and solo too
17
gimmethebeta said on April 19th, 2016
careful with the left hand two finger pocket. It tweaked my finger for awhile. Also, I watched a few climbers send this route last weekend and I didn't notice any of them using the ultra-good undercling to the left of the second bolt. It's probably a more thuggy beta for this route, so if crimps aren't quite your thing, then I suggest giving that undercling a shot.