Poon Tang

This route is located in the Middle Gorge Region at Lower Small Wall

Double Caves Crack

0 votes

Pogue's Path 5.1 (Trad) *

First Ascent: Kevin Pogue in 1970
Length: 150ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Walk 100 feet left of the Spider Squat or a few feet right of Double Caves Crack until you see a short crack which leads up to a 10ft ledge on the right. Head right along the ledge and up a stubby flake with a left-angling jamcrack. Continue up easier ground to the large ledge on the right. Skirt left along the ledge past a small pool of water to a short crack or face which leads to another ledge. Scramble to the top.
This is an easy and quick way to the top that is often climbed without rope. There is a tricky section which merits a 5th class rating.
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS

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1 stars (4 votes)
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5.1 (3 votes)

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Sorry, no pictures to be had. {want to add a photo?}


Papatrad said on March 26th, 2008
Remember to go right around obvious chimney for the true second pitch. Ledge leads to "left angling jamcrack." Not a no-brainer crack for old guys. I struggled some. Boulder up and right to a huge ledge people have camped on. Improv to the top on far side of ledge. Top-out is heavily overgrown..not as satisfying as say, Tower Rock. Rap 100 feet from webbing/rings on big ledge.