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Third World Lover

This route is located in the Gray's Branch Region at Left Flank

 Trad Boy Go

16.
+0
0 votes

Hen-ry! 5.11b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard, Shannon Langley in 1991
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route is located on a blunt arete 150 feet right of the previous three routes. Tiptoe and stretch through delicate moves to the anchors.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.92 stars (65 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (73 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

30 comments {add your own comments}
1
Roentgen Ray said on October 17th, 2004
I thought the Red was supposes to be on jug haul after another.
2
Roentgen Ray said on October 17th, 2004
So I I'm a bad editor. Should say supposed. Is that really even a word?
3
dbrayack said on November 18th, 2004
I thought that it was quite hard, being a NRG crimper-high stepper....it should be my style, but slap slap slap
4
Anonymous said on December 22nd, 2004
Should stay 11a
5
Anonymous said on March 2nd, 2005
harder than 11b
6
dbrayack said on March 11th, 2005
It can be unnerving going to the anchors too!
7
pawilkes said on May 24th, 2005
scary route. i ended up stick clipping up it when it started raining.
8
jlu said on October 4th, 2005
tricky and technical edges, definitely takes a mental edge
9
Team Suck said on July 31st, 2006
New anchors and bolts today.
10
Wes said on July 31st, 2006
Killer techy climbing. Still plenty "sporty", even with new hardware. Took the fall going to the third bolt: Exciting!!
11
der uber said on September 5th, 2006
sketch! exciting to try to onsight. took third bolt fall too, i think - the one where you go around the arete - surprisingly clean and refreshing!
12
chh said on October 17th, 2006
Onsight. I flail on overhanging jug hauls 'cause I'm weak. Techy slab 4-lyfe!
13
Anonymous said on June 5th, 2009
i demand that this be returned to an 11a
14
SCIN said on June 5th, 2009
This has been 5.11b since John Bronaugh's 1st edition in 1993. However, I just checked and Porter does have it as 5.11a in his guide. Interesting.
15
woman said on June 6th, 2009
Forget the numbers...This route should be graded SCARY. Especially in very hot/cold weather. :)
16
lena_chita said on April 19th, 2010
Sca-ry! I think the only reason I didn't give up at the crux was because I was too scared, and because I didn't want to do it again. It does have very interesting moves, but it used up a month worth of my adrenaline.
17
cliftongifford said on January 6th, 2011
hope I never get on this one again. bolted horribly and way way harder than 11b. didn't have fun on this one.
18
dustonian said on January 6th, 2011
moderately classic 11a
19
One-Fall said on January 8th, 2011
This route is so spicy, I could make chili with it.
20
Jeff said on April 22nd, 2011
How badly I want to say "Hen-ry! You crafty old Sonofabitch!" But alas, The fish's name in "on Golden Pond" is Walter.
21
Anonymous said on July 28th, 2011
i climb alot of slab and technical face climbing. im ok with getting sandbagged from time to time. but this is stupid. seriously. im going with 12a. for those of you trying to boost your egos by sandbagging you should try to climb harder to get your reputation instead of sandbagging. i feel as though i can say this because i onsighted and i am very capable of onsighting at this level.
22
Andrew said on July 28th, 2011
This route isn't any harder than 11a. Anonymous is smoking crack, but at least they are getting funnier
23
dustonian said on July 31st, 2011
agreed, 11b is inflated if anything
24
swj said on September 20th, 2011
Almost downclimbed as I contemplated the move to the third bolt but then I just decided to go for it and it stuck the move, thankfully. Felt quite sketchy, but glad to read here that the fall would have been clean. And wow, the climb to the anchors is interesting, the rock is gorgeous up there, iron oxide curlicues. I loved this climb, and think 11a/b is fair.
25
coolbreeze said on November 12th, 2013
Pretty fun, I think 11b is a fine grade. The feet are good, the hands are...there..
26
CRZYFST said on October 10th, 2015
The under cling hold popped off on me just right of the first draw. I`m only 150lbs too. :) I also feel the last bolt needs to be moved about 4' right. If you fall going to the anchors the fall/swing doesn`t look fun.
27
Anonymous said on October 10th, 2015
yeah, after 25 years this route definitely needs immediate safety revision
28
anticlmber said on October 10th, 2015
last bolt is fine where it's at. have taken that fall (several times) and caught many others on it. the swing isn't anything and you just kinda of run along the wall or softly hit air.
29
thermalfissions said on April 26th, 2016
I agree that last bolt placement seems odd. Is the rock bad to the right? Last bolt seems left of the bolt line and far left of the climbing line.
30
BubbyBoi said on May 17th, 2021
This thing feels like a cruel joke compared to others at the grade (Fuzzy, Aquaduck, Geezers Go Sport, Weed Eater). Better be a balancey wizard if you wish to onsight this one, especially with all the "nothing holds." All the chalk left of the third and fourth bolts seemed like a trap. Actual good edges exist to the right where rain seems to wash any and all chalk off. The run to the chains is awesome however. Interesting movement with a good ol' swing fall if you blow it. Keep your head.