The Madness

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Motherlode

Buck Eye


33.
+1
1 votes

Fourty Ounces of Justice 5.13a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard in 1997
Length: 110ft
Bolts: 14 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This line begins about 15 feet right of The Madness near a small tree.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.24 stars (25 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.13a (20 votes)

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Comments

1
jefflehmkuhl said on June 3rd, 2004
pile of crap!!!
2
Power2U said on April 23rd, 2006
Not sure why everyone thinks this thing is such a pile. Lots of fun moves, plus as an added bonus you get to go all the way to the top of the cave....cool :)
3
Alex3000 said on March 27th, 2007
The hardware on this line is getting pretty iffy. I think only three 'biners closed on their own when I clipped them. Most of the runners, particularly on the headwall, have little to no color left in them. Cool little crux right at the beginning there, though.
4
Thomas8696 said on October 5th, 2008
Great Route, fun climbing in the cave with great rests
5
ray said on September 20th, 2009
Cool because of how long it is. A 60 meter rope barely gets you down.
6
said on August 5th, 2010
was told to just pull up to the first bolt....is that still legit?
7
kafish2 said on August 5th, 2010
I see no reason to tram up to the first bolt. I think that goes for any route on the wall.
8
said on August 12th, 2010
i believe doing the nasty, mossy, dirty bottom part completly takes away from the route...in my opinion not doing the bottom does not take away from the route...but just makes it better....
9
kafish2 said on August 12th, 2010
sounds like you already had an idea of the answer you wanted, not sure why you asked then. Good on you for stepping it up a bit by getting on this route and also for doing your own thing.
10
der uber said on November 2nd, 2011
Great route after the first couple manky holds. Super good headwall climbing.
11
pumpout2004 said on October 1st, 2012
Somebody broke off the good crimp (which was covered in glue) that you use to do the 1 slightly more difficult move on this thing (first moves in the cave). Its now harder, which is fine, but also worse in terms of movement, which sucks.
12
dustonian said on October 1st, 2012
interesting factoid: "Fourty" is not a real word!
13
pigsteak said on October 1st, 2012
neither was 'factoid" until someone decided to use it into existence. but drumacksiked is now in the spanglish language....
14
Anonymous said on October 1st, 2012
i am learning so much.
15
Meadows said on December 14th, 2014
I think what Dustonian meant to say was that "fourty" is the incorrect spelling for the number 40. The correct spelling leaves out the "u". However, if the FA named it with this spelling, then the spelling is correct in this use.
16
XplosionOflaver said on March 26th, 2015
The 7th bolt looks really bad..needs to be replaced asap
17
DrRockso said on February 17th, 2017
First 7 were replaced in 2016 with SS Glue-Ins. 7th bolt was grooved about 3/4 of the way through as a result of wear from a spinning hanger. Thanks Fixed Gear Initiative.
18
Anonymous said on April 17th, 2017
I just got on this route yesterday and it was a lot of fun from the very beginning. The beginning of this route up to the first bolt is a little tough and has a little dirt if you grab the wrong part of one of the holds but otherwise it is a fun short boulder problem on top rope as long as you stick clip the first bolt and totally doable! Also the only glue I saw was on a single hold that went to the right when the easier moves went left so it wasn't even an issue. Other than the crux at the first bolt, the only other crux is at the sixth bolt so there is no chance of decking at that point. Everything else is just endurance and holding on. There are some other hard moves but not that bad. More just lots of endurance and a little strength always helps. I'm currently climbing 5.12+ in my gym in Colorado and can do three laps on 5.11 but had some trouble getting this route without multiple falls/takes but the good thing is the bolts are placed really well and all falls are clean air falls. I only had one really big fall where I barely came back into the wall and stopped myself with my foot. Don't make the mistake of not trying this route because of people saying the start is bad or there is glue on the route because neither was an issue at all and this route was super fun! It's also awesome to get to the very top of the madness cave with this route. Best starter route in the madness cave in my opinion! My new favorite route!
19
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2017
"Why pot shouldn't be legalized" "This is our sport,.. on hipster" "Thanks captain obvious, Ms. Smith called, they're waiting on you to start recess".... Can posts get deleted? I nominate the the previous post and then this one.