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Leave It To Beavis

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Motherlode

The Flux Capacitor


36.
+0
0 votes

Tuna Town 5.12d (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Jeff Moll in 1995
Length: 85ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route begins near the right side of the hueco mentioned in Leave It to Beavis.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.29 stars (38 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12d (39 votes)

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Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Jun 10th, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Jun 10th, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Jun 10th, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Jun 10th, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 24th, 2010

Comments

1
davetieri said on July 5th, 2003
more like 12a or 12b
2
Astroman said on March 5th, 2004
This is arguably the best 12b/c in the gorge.
3
Anonymous said on October 7th, 2004
if you're an idiot maybe
4
Anonymous said on July 29th, 2005
5.12c and really fuckin good. rest the whole way up, and then punch it for 15 feet.
5
Anonymous said on December 19th, 2006
U girls and yer derned egos :]
6
automated said on October 8th, 2007
harder than stunning the hog. so take that for what it's worth.
7
JR said on October 8th, 2007
I think it would be better to compare this route with the very similar routes (angles, holds, length etc) near it. Yes, Stunning has the same grade but that is about all they have in common.
8
jpexpress said on December 30th, 2007
12b
9
ashtray said on May 24th, 2008
This is a six-star route given a five-star system and not accounting for "star inflation". Yes, it is that good.
10
SCIN said on May 25th, 2008
I'm responsible for the star inflation. I just love every route at the Red. I'm actually going to switch to a 10 star system in the 3rd edition so I can give more stars out.
11
Anonymous said on May 29th, 2008
My root could use some lovin Ray.....................
12
Thomas8696 said on July 8th, 2008
harder than some of the other 12d's at the undertow wall, and most certainly harder than resurrection. I would say 12d is about right.
13
Anonymous said on July 8th, 2008
harder than what .12d's on the undertow?!?!
14
chriss said on July 9th, 2008
I would say that this is harder than the 'High Hard One', and that it also requires more fitness than say Flux or Harvest. As always, it is very subjective, and everyone will tell you something different. Hell, I think that we should call the entire undertow wall 5.12, that doesn't leave much to debate.
15
Anonymous said on July 15th, 2008
except for the 5.11's...
16
512OW said on June 7th, 2009
The run at the top isn't nearly as bad as its made out to be...
17
der uber said on October 18th, 2010
I have to agree with OW about the finish. I had expected several small slopey crimps based on all I've heard, but they all have bite. Definitely a great pumpy climb.
18
Anonymous said on November 13th, 2012
Bottom two fixed steel draws are starting to show significant wear. Steel Ginsu Blades likely to evolve after 1 more season. Can we get a Krew member to clean this bitch so someone else can hang new steels on the problematic draws?
19
Anonymous said on November 14th, 2012
it was safe and hassle free for a few weeks when it was cleaned except for a couple cleaning draws. we hung draws and cleaned them regularly during that time with no issue. thank kevin, allie, and the lago linda's regulars for re-fixing tuna with the hardware that's already wearing out
20
Anonymous said on November 14th, 2012
Calm down faggots. Its not a big deal to replace a steel biner or two. And with the traffic Tuna gets, no one should be surprised that there is some maintenance required. "Muhhhh i'm crew member A, I told you this would happpen waah!" --> um yeah, STFU.
21
climb2core said on November 14th, 2012
Love how Anon calls out Kevin and Alli publicly, but doesn't have the balls to share who they are. Fixed draws are here to stay. Education, awareness, and maintenance are the key. Even those cleaning draws that you used will wear with time dumbass.
22
Anonymous said on November 14th, 2012
You are enabling every Gumby that waddles into the lode by fixing these routes! Pull every fixed piece of gear and hang your own draws. This problem was solved once a year ago by a few dedicated people with some foresight.
23
climb2core said on November 14th, 2012
Obviously the problem was not "solved" as it will be re-occurring in perpetuity unless there is some sort of paradigm shift in sport climbing mentality.
24
MYDADPULLEDOUT said on November 14th, 2012
Stop cock munching the rest of your krew's cock and put the draws back up. Think about it this way; when tuna town is one of the only routes with perma draws on in it ( thanks Krewtards), everybody gets on it to warm up or fail and therefore increasing its rate of ware compared to what it would of had if all routes had draws. Why draws on Tuna Town anyway? Routes like High Hard One and Team Wilson are as good if not better; but lets be honest, the lode is a chossy wet piece of post intercourse dick.
25
Anonymous said on December 18th, 2012
OK, what the hell, the lode is definitely not a chossy wet piece of post intercourse dick, it is one of the best sport crags in the country
26
Anonymous said on October 21st, 2013
So what are the rules about fixing auto belay devices to routes? Are these crew approved? I was thinking this route needed one to facilitate warming up.
27
Anonymous said on September 30th, 2019
I noticed this past Saturday, 9/28/19 that the anchors are in poor poor shape. Both are very rusty, and the left bolt is half way out of the wall. I'll report on BadBolts as well, but wanted to leave a comment here.
28
Anonymous said on September 30th, 2019
https://badbolts.com/routes/5870c5aa1bcaaa0004000021