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Burlier's Bane

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Motherlode

The Low Easy One

1 votes

Rocket Dog 5.12b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Chris Martin in 1995
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route begins just right of Burlier's Bane and moves up through an obvious black stain. Grab a high ledge and step up to the slopers. Climb slopey pinches for about 10 feet then make a move right to a jug. Continue up through the groove on pockets to the anchors.
Moves: Slopers
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Private
pinches (2) slopey (2) stout (2) pockets (2) bouldery (2) adventerous (1)
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Quality Consensus

4.04 stars (68 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (60 votes)

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Submitted by: JR
Date: Jun 30th, 2007

Submitted by: JR
Date: Jun 30th, 2007

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005


bberlier said on May 10th, 2003
most people start with second bolt clipped
ray said on April 26th, 2004
Cool sloper moves at the bottom. Pretty unique route.
Artsay said on June 11th, 2007
Very cool route! And not all greased up with chalk like the other routes on the wall.
jakeclimber said on November 8th, 2008
better then most of the 12s on the wall
italianwrestler125 said on November 17th, 2008
very cool
mike_anderson said on October 27th, 2009
Not sure why everyone thinks this route is "easy". I thought it was full value. Tough start, then eases up.
dustonian said on October 11th, 2010
Nice one. last draw is in bad shape so bring your own in case you agree. Anchor is pretty jingus too for that matter. Gotta remember to bring a biner for this one next time.
vertical1 said on October 21st, 2010
Way cooler than the other low 12's at the Lode. Really fun movement, unique.
Anonymous said on June 1st, 2016
Amazing route! Finally got the redpoint today. Really fantastic movement with a fun boulder problem on slopers at the bottom, and a crimpy/pockety mid-section with cool thumb-catches. Quality! Solid for the grade.
Anonymous said on June 1st, 2016
agreed, this route is awesome. maybe it's because i'm a hipster but i actually like this and low easy one better than ale-8 and chainsaw.
Jared420_69 said on August 5th, 2020
I heard maja is eyeing another classic to the left of this pile. The new wave of lode development is currently peaking
said on August 5th, 2020
Rumor has it, it's already drilled out and climbable if you have enough Climb Tech RB's. Don't be scared, the holes are right where you'd want them.
Anonymous said on August 5th, 2020
What are you talking about Jared? Maja can't climb at the Lode. Those climbs are way out of his wheel house. He might be able to flail on the routes hugging the end of the crag but he can't climb at that level. He would probably project Chainsaw for a few months minimum.