Mercy, the Huff

This route is located in the Gray's Branch Region at Left Flank

Wild, Yet Tasty


21.
+1
1 votes

The Dinosaur 5.12d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard, Tony Berlier in 1992
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route begins on top of a huge boulder 15 feet right of Mercy, the Huff. Move up and tackle a low crux by stepping right (short folks) or straight up (lucky folks). Save some gas for the high redpoint crux.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
crimpy (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.24 stars (29 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12d (26 votes)

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Submitted by: Raiden
Date: Jul 29th, 2015

Submitted by: Raiden
Date: Jul 29th, 2015

Comments

1
Power2U said on May 8th, 2003
Cool climb... I don't know why nobody gets on it. It really isn't all that bad I did it on my second try. Almost onsighted it, fell at the last bolt. The one move at the 3rd bolt is reachy but hey what are you gonna do...just climb it!
2
Power2U said on May 8th, 2003
Wasn't this thing called Little Dinosaurs originally?
3
Horatio Felacio said on May 14th, 2003
i think it was called your a gay-ass shitbag.
4
Anonymous said on May 23rd, 2003
Horatio you are the MAN!
5
ashtray said on February 16th, 2008
Cool climb. Really superb.
6
woman said on March 3rd, 2008
Lovely family of flying squirrels living in the shared hand jam rest...
7
MSMITH said on June 7th, 2008
So is this 12d again? or is it still a c?
8
SCIN said on June 7th, 2008
If it's 12c in the printed guide I have nothing to do with it. Some proofreader did it. My fault for not proofreading after the proofreaders got a hold of it.
9
SCIN said on June 7th, 2008
Just found it's 12c in my guide. I guarantee the 3rd edition will be back to 12d. Some proofreader did that.
10
heavyc said on June 7th, 2008
Ray, since your guidebook stands as "the authority on grades" that last comment made my day, thanks. Unfortunately, I have now officially qualified as a pathetic number chaser.
11
allah said on June 9th, 2008
I wanna be a proofreader :)
12
maxclimb11 said on June 9th, 2008
SHARPPP
13
MSMITH said on June 11th, 2008
Definitely .12d. The crux at the third has moves that are harder individually than any move on say Wild Gift (though I have heard the argument W.G. is soft).
14
Anonymous said on October 14th, 2008
prepare to loose some skin, but in the process love it.
15
Nick said on August 25th, 2009
the right crimp of the 2 has definitely broken and made going straight up through the crux much harder but you can still go out right so i dont think it will make much ofa difference
16
Cromper said on June 11th, 2011
Some of the most painful crimps I have ever felt.
17
Anonymous said on October 11th, 2012
Some of the most painful crimps I plan to never feel again, at least not for a very long time. This climb takes its toll on the skin.
18
camhead said on October 30th, 2012
Great route; the upper section of it is way more interesting than the upper sections of MTH or WYT. Sequency pockets, and even a mono, woo! If being nitpicky, though, I do think that the obvious crux at the 3rd bolt, while really hard, is just not that fun. Micro crimps with brainless feet, basically (I went right). Oh, and Ray, it is still 12c in the 3rd ed. :)
19
Chuckdott said on November 11th, 2012
Painfully sharp, but worth every bit of agony. Does everyone really think it's 12d? Harder than Orange Juice? Granted this isn't my preferred style, but I thought Blank Canvas was harder than this route.
20
neeko said on November 29th, 2012
3 cruxes, 3 good rests and all kind of holds. This route has everything! Easier than Malice but harder than Jesus Wept. 12c/d