COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Big Sinkin' Breakdown

This route is located in the Southern Region at Drive-By Crag

Spirit Fingers

1 votes

Primus Noctum 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard in 1998
Length: 75ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route begins 10 feet right of Big Sinkin' Breakdown and is marked by an obvious slab section near the beginning of the route. Run out to the anchors!
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC

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Quality Consensus

4.05 stars (73 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (71 votes)

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Submitted by: edwinteran
Date: Oct 6th, 2013

Submitted by: JR
Date: Aug 13th, 2007

Submitted by: JR
Date: Aug 13th, 2007

Submitted by: krabikrabi
Date: Jul 23rd, 2007

Submitted by: krabikrabi
Date: Jul 23rd, 2007


Power2U said on May 12th, 2003
Another good one...don't forget the crux runout to the anchors that make this one worth while.
Anonymous said on August 14th, 2003
The route is no longer poorly protected.
pigsteak said on July 31st, 2005
maybe not, but it is still runout to the chains...this would be a tough onsite.
Wes said on May 2nd, 2006
A little bit "sporty" to the chains, but no place to really stop and clip until you are pretty much there anyway. Fun route!
Anonymous said on July 29th, 2006
maxclimb11 said on September 8th, 2006
man i need to grow like an inch and a half to do this route
Anonymous said on September 10th, 2006
no you don't. just get a high foot.
chouca said on November 3rd, 2006
or use the crimp on the right. I'm 5'4 and did it this way.
Anonymous said on March 18th, 2008
Large route for large people
Wolf said on May 5th, 2008
Woo Hoo. About time someone suggested I'm large at 5' 8".
der uber said on August 16th, 2009
exciting finish!
Brentucky said on April 7th, 2011
pigman, there are no onsites in the red, there is only getting lucky and grabbing the appropriate chalked up holds. if there were such a thing, however, then this would be my first of the grade woot woot!!! :-)
pigsteak said on April 7th, 2011
nicely done tucky...I am now more concerned that you actually wrote 'woot woot".....
der uber said on April 7th, 2011
Killer flash!
Smiley said on April 13th, 2014
The crux just got a move or two longer.
stephmjxteam said on May 27th, 2014
Someone told me that the crux is harder then before. Maybe a hole is broke ?
climb2core said on November 4th, 2015
Run out makes you try just a bit harder. Really enjoyed this one.
nicram1 said on November 4th, 2015
Same grade with the supposed broken hold up top?
climb2core said on November 4th, 2015
It felt solid at 12a but not harder. Not sure what broke? 5.11 climbing to a really good shake at the last bolt before heading into a the v4 crux.
Anonymous said on November 4th, 2015
v4, lol
lilgilby said on April 4th, 2019
For some reason, putting this one together at the top feels more difficult than Tic Tac Toe.
JR said on April 4th, 2019
a hold is gone mid crux section. The moves are different. That section is harder now. Does it change the grade? not sure. The 12a's at this crag are all over the place now(grade wise). Maybe this will be order of difficulty. Easiest to hardest. 1:Naked Lunch 2:Check your Grip 3:Hakuna Matata 4:Extra Backup 5:Primus noctum 6:Bloods and Crips
shadow.ayala said on April 5th, 2019
JR nails it once again. I could not agree more. You forgot Death Wish, for good reason.
lilgilby said on April 5th, 2019
Thanks JR. That actually is helpful.. Unfortunately 1) and 2) were occupied the whole day I was out there. Next time.
Anonymous said on April 6th, 2019
Being tall, Primus is easier for me than Hakuna (and yes I did it after "the break"). I didn't think the "boulder problem" on Primus was any harder than V2 w/ the right beta (balancy more than anything), most of the rest of the climb is pretty chill, and there's a gigantic rest before the hard part. I don't share this to invalidate anyone else's opinions, only to point out that, as always, grading is subjective and heavily dependent on body size, climbing style, etc.