Deeper is Better

This route is located in the Southern Region at Drive-By Crag

Throne of Lies


14.
+0
0 votes

Yadda Yadda Yadda 5.11b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Kellyn Gorder in 1997
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route ascends the arete located about 15 feet right of Whipstocking. Climb interesting and reachy moves to the anchors.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.63 stars (87 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (69 votes)

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Comments

1
Gaar said on August 16th, 2004
Very unique climb! Gym moves
2
Meadows said on October 17th, 2004
Freaked me out worse than Burrito
3
chriss said on April 24th, 2005
Really fun route! I actually liked it more than whipstocking.
4
drifter said on October 19th, 2006
Fun route. Much easier than it looks.
5
verticalturtle said on June 25th, 2007
Very fun route! Excellent moves on the arete. Too bad it's so short.
6
NateS GR said on October 16th, 2008
Did this on top rope because I was trying to save time and energy for other climbs but I should have just lead it. This climb is short and I thought really easy. It had some really unique fun moves though. It's a great 5.11 that deserves 5 stars but I wish it were longer.
7
pkananen said on March 22nd, 2009
I was pretty pumped from trying to figure out the moves onsight, so I ended up using the crack and clipped the anchors from a handjam. Worked pretty well.
8
mpittdawg said on May 31st, 2009
1 move wonder, but still very fun!
9
der uber said on June 29th, 2009
Great line. The crux move isn't that hard, but it does require you to reach up and pull into a thin but good side pull, get a high foot, and go to jugs. The other commenters are right on. Solid 4 stars, get on this line.
10
Smiley said on July 27th, 2009
Not the most appealing climb when viewed from the ground, but it is a lot of fun and should not be missed.
11
Willy said on April 29th, 2012
I ended up ignoring the giant side pull that begs to be used in the crux section. This thing has some interesting moves to it for sure. Felt soft for 11b
12
cliftongifford said on November 30th, 2012
Short crux. Softer side of 11b.
13
CRZYFST said on September 13th, 2014
Anchors need help. One badly worn cold shut. Another small locking oval that has bent apart. Another was put on but all rusted and not level with the cold shut. Seems most lower off the cold shut. Maybe someday someone can clean it up. Sorry I don't have means.
14
veela-valoom said on July 28th, 2015
There was a mama bird in the crack next to this route this past weekend. She seemed really upset when we started to climb it and made low guttural noises when climbing past. I'd give her a little bit to get her babies out of the nest before climbing this route. We were worried she might attack. Also the anchors are still terrible on this route if anyone was wondering.
15
DrRockso said on October 2nd, 2015
Anchors fixed as of 8/30/2015, SS glue-ins and new chain/beefy quicklinks.
16
Anonymous said on October 17th, 2015
5 bolt extension opened by Craig Smith and Charmagne Cox. Throne of Lies, 12c