Lord of the Ring

This route is located in the Southern Region at Drive-By Crag

Knees and Toes


15.
+1
1 votes

Head and Shoulders 5.11d (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Kellyn Gorder in 1997
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route ascends the bolted flake system just right of Yadda Yadda Yadda and on the adjacent wall.
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
stout (1) offwidth (1) pumpy (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.2 stars (35 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12- (36 votes)

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Comments

1
haas said on May 24th, 2005
one of the best lines in the gorge!
2
haas said on June 9th, 2005
Attempted to send this thing on gear. It will definitly go, just makes it a touch harder but way more classic. Stay tuned for the amazing send
3
Caspian said on November 17th, 2005
This looks like an obvious gear line.
4
Anonymous said on April 1st, 2006
11d because of the spiders
5
Power2U said on November 4th, 2006
Fun climb good full body work out, not sure why I avoided it until now.
6
ray said on March 31st, 2008
Hammer drops at the last bolt.
7
krampus said on September 22nd, 2008
Definitly harder than any of the 12a's at the crag but very solid for the grade. Fantastic climb though, 5 star all the way.
8
512OW said on September 22nd, 2008
You just need some crack technique son. This is soft for the grade, at best.
9
Anonymous said on April 15th, 2009
i just want everyone to know how much i hate this dirty, wet, awkward, terrible route.
10
pigsteak said on April 15th, 2009
hey haas, waiting on that amazing send on gear....isn't there a time limit on spray like there is on red tags?
11
512OW said on April 15th, 2009
I think it would be 11b on gear. Its only 11d because of clipping the last bolt. You wouldn't have to stop there if you were pluggin...
12
Anonymous said on April 16th, 2009
wouldnt doing it on gear make it harder cause you have to plug and clip dumb ass
13
pigsteak said on April 16th, 2009
i love it "someone" calling you dumbass..yeah, dumbass, don't you know anything about placing gear :)
14
512OW said on April 16th, 2009
Dear someone, Maybe your scenario would be correct if you sucked at placing gear from rest stances. As it is, the route is one giant rest stance, except for the last 10 feet. Being that I'm not scared to climb above my gear (or use my name), the climb would be just as easy on gear. Since its only about 11b with bolts (stupid sport climbers can't climb cracks), why should it be any different on gear? I just want to know... did you logout before you posted your comment?
15
redpointron said on April 16th, 2009
it's comments like that kris that make me realize that pigsteak is so bush league. i am tearing up a bit...
16
haas said on April 17th, 2009
pigsteak, you're right, it's been too long. Someone else needs to send this thing on gear. I've been away from the gorge for waaaay too long. I'll be back in the fall I promise! Not sure if I'll do this line again as there's been too many sweet-sounding lines (including your own) added since I moved out west.
17
pigsteak said on April 18th, 2009
can't wait to have you back...get Tackett out again, puleeze, even if it is for some crappy off width trad.
18
der uber said on August 16th, 2009
Felt tough for grade. I'm not great at jamming, but anyway I don't see jamming coming in 'handy' that much at the end. A solid, fun different line.
19
Becca said on October 25th, 2009
Fun physical climbing... this route felt hard before I actually had a sequence for the top. A 'real' 11d.
20
512OW said on October 25th, 2009
Actually, I think with crack climbing experience, that this is more like a "real" 11b. But whatever...
21
pawilkes said on October 27th, 2009
Kris: considering there is one vote for 11c and many votes for 11d, 12a and 12b, I would say the community feels this is a "real" 11d, regardless of how many snide remarks you make to put down people's crack skills and amplify your own awesomeness
22
dan4geng said on October 27th, 2009
Crack skills? Its all about the Kneebaring
23
Anonymous said on August 4th, 2011
Right. Kneebars. Stroll to the last bolt, then want it. And omg, k-dupe is right.
24
tequilamonster said on October 15th, 2015
Favorite of the grade. Knee bars for days!!!!
25
DrRockso said on September 1st, 2017
Some of the permadraws draws on this are starting to get sharp.
26
wsimek said on August 24th, 2018
Permadraw removed where Beer Belly splits off due to excessive wear/sharpening — top 3 bolts now devoid of steel permas. Anchor needs switching to the new glue-ins installed up there as well.