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adventerous arete beautiful bouldery classic confusing contrived crimpy dihedral dynamic exposed fingers fists fun hands juggy long offwidth pile pinches pockets pumpy runout scary shady sharp short slopey steep stout sunny technical vertical

The Dinosaur

This route is located in the Gray's Branch Region at Left Flank

 The "end" of the crag

22.
+1
1 votes

Wild, Yet Tasty 5.12a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard, Jeff Moll in 1992
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 4 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route begins 15 feet right of The Dinosaur. Begin on the huge boulder and step into the crack system. Ascend the dihedral then move left onto the face. Climb up and through a powerful and crimpy crux to gain more positive holds for the rest of the way. Don't shake on the runout!
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
fun (1) pumpy (1) classic (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.78 stars (119 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (102 votes)

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Submitted by: cpliley
Date: Jul 18th, 2015

Submitted by: cpliley
Date: Jul 18th, 2015

Submitted by: climb2core
Date: Sep 9th, 2010

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 23rd, 2010

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

27 comments {add your own comments}
1
Artsay said on July 11th, 2003
Easy for the grade.
2
Anonymous said on September 7th, 2003
who is the player and or genius who bolted this route blows wang
3
Gaar said on August 24th, 2004
Nothing wrong with bolting hollow rock. it all good! (my ass it is) just knock on the rock any time during the climb it wont break.
4
Roentgen Ray said on October 17th, 2004
If you're a gym rat and can pull V4 like nobodies tomorrow but haven't climbed 5.12, this is your chance.
5
Paul3eb said on November 22nd, 2004
i'm with artsay on this one. my crux was not burning/psyching myself out getting the fourth clip. really not too bad after that if you've saved yourself a little.
6
rhunt said on November 23rd, 2004
an F'ing jug haul...11b at best
7
anticlmber said on December 24th, 2004
the whip from the chains is the best!!!!!! a must for anyone with a good belayer( read no victory slack, just a little)
8
pawilkes said on July 11th, 2005
i think its a great route, makes for a decent warm up for other routes on the wall. but i do think it is .11c or so.
9
Anonymous said on July 12th, 2005
If this is .11c or so, I guess that makes relaxed atmosphere 10d or so. I would call this route a soft 12a (A tough crux between the fourth and fifth bolts after a taxing fourth clip.) This route is arguably harder than hardcore jollies and buddha hole.
10
Anonymous said on July 27th, 2005
you're right actually... relaxed atmosphere is 10d/11a. and it's a little easier than buddha hole (11d). a stiff 11c would be about right. if the clip is adding to the grade, the go get on sunshine or moonbeam, clip from all the wrong holds, and call it whatever you want. the moves themselves are no harder than tough 11c, softish 11d. it's not about downgrading, it's about accurately representing a climb's difficulty (or lack there of).
11
Anonymous said on September 29th, 2005
i don't know why you people don't just buy a climbometer and get some 'real' grading going on.
12
chouca said on October 8th, 2005
11d compared to most 12a I've done @ the Red. Pretty much a one move wonder. Either you like the incut edge or not.
13
pawilkes said on October 21st, 2005
i was told the "short person" beta for going between the fourth and fifth bolt and it worked great, even though i am 5'11". i don't want to post bet on here cause thats rude but if you do this beta, the route is pretty casual. if you want to know the beta just PM me
14
dbrayack said on December 1st, 2005
I liked this route, though I was never really felt a "memorable" clip, shrug, go figure.
15
kek-san said on June 12th, 2006
A bit runout from the last bolt to the anchors. Never did find a subtle solution for the move between 4 and 5. Exposure rather than pump go to me. Someday it'll go clean.
16
Team Suck said on July 31st, 2006
New anchors today. They ended up being placed lower then hoped, so might try to re-work them next time.
17
512OW said on February 1st, 2007
12a.... but soft. Harder than Ro Shampo or Hippocrite...
18
tania said on August 29th, 2007
Regardless of what anyone thinks the grade is I really enjoyed this route; cool moves at the crux, at least for a short person like me.
19
whatahutch said on June 3rd, 2009
I agree, harder than Ro and Hyppocrite. I got Ro on TR and have one fall on Hyppo. I took two whips and three other hangs on this yesterday and never got to the top. Figured the beta out at last, but didn't have enough gas left to make it and took the second whip and decided to come back on another day.
20
SeanStone said on November 17th, 2009
Kind of a "one move wonder" but fun none the less
21
bad_ass said on September 7th, 2011
Awesome fking climb!! who cares what the grade is, the rock is amazing. But all you idiots should keep discussing whether its 11c or not, great way to spend your time...
22
hypro said on May 20th, 2012
excellent opportunity for dyno, skip the crimps!!
23
whoneedsfeet said on October 1st, 2012
Everything stays dry..... Except for holds in the black rock. Was super soapy and moist from the seepage.
24
dustonian said on October 1st, 2012
Sheesh, why do you have to bring Cromper's mom into everything???
25
pumpout2004 said on October 1st, 2012
KABOOOM! Take that cromper's mom!
26
Willy said on March 9th, 2014
The boulder problem is super fun! Definitely not the easiest 12a in the gorge though.
27
Chiyram said on January 20th, 2015
Cool route! One move wonder for the most part and didn't seem 12a. And its more like 5 bolts and 60 feet.