Super Charger

This route is located in the Southern Region at Drive-By Crag

Spank


20.
+1
1 votes

Dirty Smelly Hippie 5.13b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Dave Hume in 1997
Length: 90ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route begins by climbing the right arete of the 30 foot block to the right of Head and Shoulders and continues up the overhanging face above.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
pumpy (1) pinches (1) technical (1) slopey (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.38 stars (24 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.13b (32 votes)

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Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Aug 6th, 2010

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Aug 6th, 2010

Submitted by: caribe
Date: Aug 9th, 2008

Comments

1
One-Fall said on July 12th, 2005
I think that the old grade of 12d was sandbagged. I think it is at least 13a, but you might be right, Ray.
2
Power2U said on November 6th, 2006
Just got on this today, awesome movement, and hard! My guess is that 13b is accurate, but we'll have to see.
3
Power2U said on November 12th, 2006
Great route, 13a/b.
4
ray said on November 27th, 2006
Similar holds to Tika Monster but more sustained with a tough redpoint crux up high. Nice slopey holds straight out of the gym.
5
maxclimb11 said on April 21st, 2008
pretty cool. good holds and sweet movement.
6
caribe said on August 9th, 2008
Image Left: Etienne Seppecher, 2008/08/08
7
One-Fall said on September 22nd, 2010
Put ClimbTech Perma Draws on this today. If the previous draws on the climb were yours, please pm me with a discription and Ill get them back to you.
8
Jeff said on September 22nd, 2010
Thanks for your generosity Lee.
9
dustonian said on September 22nd, 2010
Awesome Lee, thanks!!
10
der uber said on November 11th, 2010
Fantastic movement. Exciting crux.
11
Anonymous said on April 10th, 2012
This route needs to be downgraded..there's a kneebar in the crux and the grade should reflect that. soft 13a. Not on par with any other 13b in the red.
12
ray said on August 21st, 2012
Hilarious! Yes sir, right away sir! I'm sorry the inaccurate grade makes you so angry. We will correct this terrible, terrible inaccuracy!
13
tbwilsonky said on August 21st, 2012
trust me bor, kneebars in cruxes ALWAYS mean 13a.
14
LeeAB said on August 15th, 2013
Yes, all those routes at Rifle with knee bars, 5.13a all of them, the grades in the guide book are just fluffed up to help you feel good about yourself.
15
Cocoapuffs1000 said on April 24th, 2017
Bolt before the crux (#8?) is starting to pull out of the wall. It looks like the whole sleeve is coming out, I don't think tightening would help. Reported to Bad Bolts.
16
Anonymous said on May 1st, 2017
Just lowered off the 7th, got up to the 8th, yanked on it and it pulled out about 1 cm. This sucker is coming out of the wall one way or another. Also worth noting that the 9th permas gate hangs open.
17
Chiyram said on May 2nd, 2017
Did you report on Badbolts.com?
18
shadow.ayala said on May 4th, 2017
Yet sport wankers refuse to carry a wrench and WD40. Call Bad Bolts!!!! No one knows how to use a wrench!!!
19
Anonymous said on May 4th, 2017
Shadow... get the fuck over yourself. You will never be the allah of redriverclimbing. Continue developing trash boulder fields in your relentless quest for v10/v6. You are a daily reminder that the emo kid who played acoustic guitar during high school lunch is going no where.
20
Rx2Climb said on May 4th, 2017
I think the last Anon probably has a wrench and can of WD40 up their ass. Probably not a bad place to store them. That way you always have them on route if you find a loose bolt.
21
Anonymous said on May 4th, 2017
Damn anon, you are a fucktard, aren't you?! As Rx mentioned, take the wd40 can out of your ass from time to time...it's obviously making you very bitchy.
22
Cocoapuffs1000 said on May 4th, 2017
Now seems like a great time to re-ignite the kneebar debate... GO
23
shadow.ayala said on May 5th, 2017
When I was in high school, I sat and ate lunch near the mentally handicapped kids. I would sit and wait for douche bags to come around and torment them. Then I would beat up said douche bag. After a while, people started calling me the "Tard Guard". True story.
24
Rx2Climb said on May 5th, 2017
"Tard Guard" would be a great route name. IMHO
25
Anonymous said on May 5th, 2017
anon such jealousy and hatred, what a horrible existence you must live. i hope that wd40 and wrench finds its way out soon.
26
ray said on May 6th, 2017
Wow anon, that's so far from the truth. Shadow you know not.
27
Anonymous said on May 8th, 2017
That's a nice story Shadow, too bad its not true. The only interaction I have had with you is a day at chocolate factory where you walked past us and mumbled some passive aggressive BS towards us and our dog. Everyone in our group assumed you were just a massive douche bag looking for attention, the tattoo eyebrows kinda confirm that huh....
28
Anonymous said on May 8th, 2017
Hey wd40 ass toy person: Since dogs are often similar to their owners, I'll bet your dog is a bitter little asshole bitch too
29
Sandymalone88 said on May 8th, 2017
This is ridiculous. Anon, chill the fuck out. You are a troubled human. Even if that did happen, you probably deserved it..You had one unpleasant interaction with someone and talk shit about them on a climbing website? Get over it dude. If I walked past you at a crag, I'd probably mumble some passive aggressive shit also.
30
Anonymous said on May 8th, 2017
That second anon was different than the first.... Two separate people. Sorry my opinion of shadow hurt your feelings so much sandyvagina but everyone in our group thought he came off as a jerk. Anyone that is craving attention so much to get those ridiculous tattoos obviously has some psych issues going on, probably mommy/daddy issues. But for Shadow to mumble some BS to a bunch of people he has never met says a lot about the dude, probably more than the lame tats.
31
Rx2Climb said on May 8th, 2017
So..... Shadow walked by your group mumbled something and now you are diagnosing him with a psych disorder and going on a rant? You're a fucking idiot. Maybe get off your high horse and stop judging people based on a single moment. Shadow is a pretty great human and one of the friendliest people I have met. Get over yourself anon.
32
Ascentionist said on May 8th, 2017
Haha, I have never commented on a climb so far over my head, but I just wanted to make one point... Just because "everyone in our group" felt the same way means absolutely zilch, zero, nothing. I have met soooo many groups of complete assholes running together in a pack in my life that I'm sure it was conceivable this was also the case. I don't know Shadow but I've seen pics of his eyebrow tattoos. I still think commenting anonymously to tear someone down is a far worse crime against humanity.
33
climbhigh said on May 8th, 2017
My guess is, he shoulda punched you, stole your girl and bbq'd your dog. but hes nicer than me.
34
Anonymous said on May 9th, 2017
Poor fragile wd40 lover #2 seems to have a real hang up with facial tattoos. Must have something to do with the trauma related to the giant dick sharpied on his forehead at numerous slumber parties. No matter how hard you try to scrub it off, we still see it.
35
Anonymous said on May 9th, 2017
It sucks how little of the conments on the climbs are actually about climbs now. These anon comments just detract. Ian
36
Ascentionist said on May 9th, 2017
There is a forum on this page. Oddly, I don't think most people that frequent the site these days can figure out the purpose of a simple internet forum.
37
Anonymous said on May 9th, 2017
Says the two that either comment the most on routes or just commented.......
38
Anonymous said on May 22nd, 2017
So Shadow was half right. There was nothing wrong with the crux bolt, except it was loose. No WD40 was needed. It did get (mostly unnecessarily) replaced with a glue in. I was already up there with the drill and the glue so figured I'd switch it out anyways. Hardware provided by FGI, funded by the community. Please try wrenching on bolts before you assume it's bad. Ian
39
shadow.ayala said on May 28th, 2017
Hey Ian, thanks for fixing the bolt. The WD40 was for the 9th draw gate hanging open.
40
Anonymous said on May 29th, 2017
Loooooved shadow's interview saying he lives off other peoples gear at the crag, because people from the city don't care about losing expensive gear. What a delusional fool who thinks he knows anything about the real world or how other people feel about losing gear... Keep living off stolen food from Miguel's and living in the dirt ya tattooed loser :)