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Dirty Smelly Hippie

This route is located in the Southern Region at Drive-By Crag

Absolute Zero

0 votes

Spank 5.13a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: David Hume
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route ascends the overhanging face a few feet right of Dirty Smelly Hippie and just right of a dihedral. Begin by climbing left of the dihedral then move right at the good stance to take on the severely overhanging face. Shake it out at the obvious jug near the top then slap and pinch to the anchors.
Equipped by Chris Martin.
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
steep (2) bouldery (1) exposed (1) slopey (1) classic (1) fun (1) pinches (1)
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Quality Consensus

3.9 stars (41 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.13a (38 votes)

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Submitted by: Raiden
Date: Sep 4th, 2014

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Aug 6th, 2010

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Aug 6th, 2010

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Nov 7th, 2006

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Nov 7th, 2006


Anonymous said on November 2nd, 2005
has seen lots of sends, not a project
Anonymous said on November 2nd, 2005
great route, dicy at times
Anonymous said on November 2nd, 2005
great route, dicy at times
Horatio Felacio said on November 7th, 2006
This is an absolutely MARVELOUS climbing route!!!!!! I ascended the truly remarkable grips up the stunning, yet incredibly overhanging wall today. Breathtaking! The 1st go, I hung quite a few times, especially on the 1st and 2nd bolt because the crack was weird and a bit scary; I also grabbed most of the draws on my path to the anchors! The last bolt I could not clip because the grips are not so well in that section of the rock, not to say that it isn't spectacular! I was scared of the runout and did not clip the chain anchors. On my second ascent, I was able to grab the last draw to make the rope clip, however, it is still scary going to the chain anchor. I did make it though. Perhaps one day I will send this AMAZING rock climb! CHeers all! - Matt Massey
Power2U said on November 12th, 2006
Look at the picture, Ray has made me famous on this most "AMAZING rock climb!"
mcrib said on November 12th, 2006
Shameless self promotion.
Power2U said on November 13th, 2006
Fame, fortune, and glory baby... that is why I rock climb!
Anonymous said on November 21st, 2006
wow power2u, i vote the camera is tipped a little bit more so that the route looks even steeper. haha, im just kidding buddy.
Anonymous said on November 24th, 2006
This route is called "Spank" and is 13a.
ray said on November 25th, 2006
Hey anonymous mystery person, any idea who bagged the FA?
One-Fall said on December 24th, 2006
Chris Martin got the FA.
SCIN said on December 24th, 2006
Did he name it Spank?
One-Fall said on January 1st, 2007
Yes Sir.
Horatio Felacio said on April 22nd, 2008
i think there may be a really big no-hands after the initial dihedral.
Anonymous said on April 28th, 2008
kewl! just watch out for the radioactive dust at the base.
Anonymous said on April 28th, 2008
horatio is so full of crap that his eyes are brown (or at least they should be), so please ignore his dry sense of morony. if it wasn't for the radioactive dust at the base then this route would be an "all-time crank-wrenching classic".
ashtray said on April 28th, 2008
damned wireless. that was me again.
512OW said on August 25th, 2008
Soft in the grade... even in the August humidity. Fun though.. and exciting down low with a nice run to the chains.
schwagpad said on April 14th, 2009
Actually Chris generously gave this one to me. I got the first ascent and named it Spank.
Toy said on April 14th, 2009
That will be 50 cents for the beta schwag!
Nick said on August 18th, 2009
so do most people use the second sit-down rest on this thing?
Anonymous said on May 10th, 2010
yes, most people use the sit down rest. 4th bolt could stand to be lowered or moved a bit also so it could be clipped out of the underclings on the right or on the sidepull out left.
climb2core said on April 17th, 2011
Does going right drop the grade? Also, someone mentioned getting a kneebar in the crux... Please send me a pic ;).
Chuckdott said on May 14th, 2012
The second rest isn't necessary. True, some people use it, but it would be an ugly fall (swing into a ledge) if you were slip in the precarious stance coming out of that rest. The safer way is to clip the far bolt at the first ledge, come back and rest it up, then proceed straight up from that ledge instead of moving right from it. This doesn't really waste any more juice than the other way.
Cocoapuffs1000 said on May 6th, 2014
Some of the hardware on this route is showing its age. The carabiner on the first bolt is getting very sharp, and the third is not in great shape either. Also the bolt before the crux is very rusty and the hanger is spinning. That is the bolt before the bolt that most people skip, so it sees a lot of big falls. Reported to Team Suck.
Anonymous said on May 6th, 2014
If draws are bad, take them down
Cocoapuffs1000 said on May 6th, 2014
I didn't have anything to remove it. If I'm back there and it's still bad I will bring a wrench. I put a leaver biner on the first bolt when I climbed it and left it there for now.
smitty said on May 7th, 2015
I removed the steel biner hanging from the chain before the crux bolt and it was replaced by another climber. I have never seen anything like this. The rope wear was fine and barely cause for concern; however, the gate was splintering and deteriorating on the rope side and super sharp to the touch. Just a word of warning, check the gates. Just because it is steel does not mean it is bomber forever.
Anonymous said on March 11th, 2017
I removed the brown bd draw from the first bolt because it was dangerously sharp. It's sitting behind the boulder at the base.
Anonymous said on March 12th, 2017
Why? Pretty sure no one is going to be back for that draw, now you are just littering...
Anonymous said on December 7th, 2020
To the folks on here that may actually have an understanding of boulder grades (I am clueless to such), how hard is the upper boulder problem on this? V5? V6?
Anonymous said on December 7th, 2020
@anon, its probably v5 if you are above 5'7 if you are shorter it will be harder.
ray said on December 9th, 2020
My honest opinion would be V3 if it were a standalone boulder problem where being pumped wouldn't be part of the equation
Anonymous said on December 10th, 2020
Yeah bouldering grades have gotten even more fluffed up than route grades these days... "V5" in most gyms is now legit 5.10+