God Save the Queen

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Dip Wall

Too Many Daves


20.
+0
0 votes

One Fist Two Fist Red Fist Blue Fist 5.8 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Jason Burton in 1999
Length: 40ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Walk around two corners to the right of Star-Bellied Sneeches to locate this right angling fist crack splitting a short slab.
Moves: Fists
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.33 stars (24 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8+ (20 votes)

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Submitted by: ahab
Date: Aug 14th, 2008

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

1
SCIN said on March 16th, 2003
Actually this route has a second pitch to it.
2
JB said on July 15th, 2003
FA by Jason Burton and Steve Kaufmann
3
Anonymous said on October 24th, 2006
Well, for a guy who doesn't have the best crack technique, I'd agree with the 5.9- rating, but if you do have crack technique, then I'd say this goes at 5.8. Manky, slippery bottom for your feet, if you can't depend on a fist jam, then you're going to have a tough time. Good pro.
4
B.J. said on November 4th, 2007
Lots of fun and well worth the trip.
5
pigsteak said on May 12th, 2008
my favorite at Dip Wall. no fist jams needed.
6
p0bray01 said on October 7th, 2008
I was pretty proud to send this one...Seems like it took #4's the whole way...and the feet were def slippery. Tape up.
7
The Sherpa said on June 22nd, 2009
Fun with bomber fist jams the entire way. The start was a little weird but otherwise I really liked it. I only used 1 #4 on the whole route so I don't think you will need a bunch. I agree on the tape up comment.
8
jrathfon said on September 27th, 2010
yup, tape up, especially that thumb bump. we used two 4's an old 3.5, two 3's and a 2, we like sewing it up and well, we had 'em with us. really fun, could be longer, on a dry day there's no munge at the start.
9
veela-valoom said on October 3rd, 2017
Couldn't get a fist jam (small hands) so the start was really difficult. Luckily it rewards you with easier and easier climbing as you go up.