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God Save the Queen

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Dip Wall

Too Many Daves

0 votes

One Fist Two Fist Red Fist Blue Fist 5.8 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Jason Burton in 1999
Length: 40ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Walk around two corners to the right of Star-Bellied Sneeches to locate this right angling fist crack splitting a short slab.
Moves: Fists
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS

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Quality Consensus

3.33 stars (24 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8+ (20 votes)

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Submitted by: ahab
Date: Aug 14th, 2008

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005


SCIN said on March 16th, 2003
Actually this route has a second pitch to it.
JB said on July 15th, 2003
FA by Jason Burton and Steve Kaufmann
Anonymous said on October 24th, 2006
Well, for a guy who doesn't have the best crack technique, I'd agree with the 5.9- rating, but if you do have crack technique, then I'd say this goes at 5.8. Manky, slippery bottom for your feet, if you can't depend on a fist jam, then you're going to have a tough time. Good pro.
B.J. said on November 4th, 2007
Lots of fun and well worth the trip.
pigsteak said on May 12th, 2008
my favorite at Dip Wall. no fist jams needed.
p0bray01 said on October 7th, 2008
I was pretty proud to send this one...Seems like it took #4's the whole way...and the feet were def slippery. Tape up.
The Sherpa said on June 22nd, 2009
Fun with bomber fist jams the entire way. The start was a little weird but otherwise I really liked it. I only used 1 #4 on the whole route so I don't think you will need a bunch. I agree on the tape up comment.
jrathfon said on September 27th, 2010
yup, tape up, especially that thumb bump. we used two 4's an old 3.5, two 3's and a 2, we like sewing it up and well, we had 'em with us. really fun, could be longer, on a dry day there's no munge at the start.
veela-valoom said on October 3rd, 2017
Couldn't get a fist jam (small hands) so the start was really difficult. Luckily it rewards you with easier and easier climbing as you go up.