Crackaluffagus

This route is located in the Upper Gorge Region at Eagle Point Buttress

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14.
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Blister in the Sun 5.9 (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Jerry Bargo, Alex Cudkowicz, Keith Curtis
Length: 85ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Hike left around the wall using the well-worn hiker's trail and scramble, which leads to the top of the cliff. As you near the top of the rock, you will note an imposing pocketed headwall to your right. Traverse right under the headwall along a vegetated ledge system (known as The Dragon's Wing) around a corner to the south face. Scramble over some flat boulders and follow a path through some shrubs to an open area. To the right of this area is Blister in the Sun. [Alternatively, you can reach The Dragon's Wing by improvising a scramble and easy 5th class climbing from the lower ledge with caps The Hangover Problem and If My Number's Up.] Superb moves and vista. Locate a conspicuous right-facing flake on the right side of The Dragon's Wing. Climb the flake to a rounded bulge split by a thin face crack. Surmount it, then fire to the ledge. Pull over a small overhang with a crack to a stance. Climb up the sparsely protected face to the top.
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.53 stars (17 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9 (7 votes)

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Comments

1
ray said on October 19th, 2003
Awesome route. Sling a horn on the runout section and it's not runout.
2
ynot said on November 27th, 2006
It's a great climb. the moves are sweet. I always thought it looked R but I never noticed the horn. Will it keep you from hitting the last ledge?
3
Anonymous said on August 28th, 2008
a pink or brown TriCam half way through the runout in a nearly hidden pocket left of the line also erases the run out
4
ahab said on December 29th, 2008
it's not everyday that one can be this exposed in the red. thrilling.
5
Peng said on March 9th, 2009
A red LinkCam in some horizontals also erases the runout. Awesome, awesome route.
6
cliftongifford said on November 29th, 2012
Not worthy of 5 stars, 4 stars maybe. Spicy and fun! Day Dreaming is a much better line IMO.
7
MikeWilkinson said on March 24th, 2019
Great climbing in an amazing position. Didn't find any gear on the top runout section but the climbing there was relatively easy on good edges, just added to the experience. Might want to bring along some webbing for tree at the top. Big hands I know you're the one!
8
wilkes86 said on May 19th, 2019
Awesome route, great exposure and position. The gear is not everywhere you want it but is everywhere you need it on the route and all the gear you get is bomb. It’s worth the hike over to do this route.