Psychochicken

This route is located in the Southern Region at Solar Collector and Gold Coast

Ethics Police


5.
+0
0 votes

Psychopathy 5.12c (Sport) **

First Ascent: Jason McClennan
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the fifth bolted route from the left on the main wall. Look for a bolted line with a blank section about midway up. Climb the line and try clipping the bolt at the crux. If you can't clip it, skip it and run to the next one.
Moves: Slab
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.5 stars (4 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.13a (2 votes)

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Comments

1
Anonymous said on May 8th, 2003
FA Jason McClennan
2
Stewy911 said on May 16th, 2005
I love the Reds definition of slab........
3
ray said on October 23rd, 2005
Two death crimps from hell at the crux. I think they were made with glass, nails, and cement.
4
Anonymous said on June 5th, 2006
this route is at least 13a in my opinion..
5
mike_anderson said on November 6th, 2009
Blatantly manufactured and harder than 12c...IMO.
6
craig.smith1 said on May 21st, 2014
This route is fine. The only thing manufactured on this is a hold that was reinforced with glue. Whatever the grade is, it's a gimmie since it's only 2 or 3 moves. Use it as a warm up for the hard crimping on True Love or Golden Boy.
7
Tomer Oren said on March 24th, 2015
Pretty fun and a little dirty 5.11 climbing, to what felt like a very challenging crimpy crux. A 13a grade for this one would still keep the stoutness, but might actually increase the traffic because the grade would make more sense. (The crux felt much harder then any single move on Golden Boy, IMO) (The crimps are pretty small and sharp, and it's quite the lock-off to the next hold)
8
Cromper said on October 5th, 2015
I thought this was pretty fun, very hard and sharp though haha