Psychopathy

This route is located in the Southern Region at Solar Collector and Gold Coast

Buddha Hole


6.
+1
1 votes

Ethics Police 5.11d (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Rob McFall
Length: 75ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the sixth bolted route from the left on the main wall. Climb up to a large hueco. Cross out of the hueco then hang on for a few moves to get to easier ground. Angle slightly left to the anchors.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
fun (2) pumpy (1) confusing (1) arete (1) juggy (1) bouldery (1) pockets (1) exposed (1) adventerous (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.23 stars (52 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (61 votes)

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Submitted by: toppen_out
Date: Nov 22nd, 2017

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
Anonymous said on May 7th, 2003
FA Rob McFall
2
Andrew said on August 9th, 2003
Stays dry in heavy rain
3
Paul3eb said on November 22nd, 2004
the crimp coming out of the hueco broke. it's now significantly smaller (for all of you who matched on it before). super cool still!
4
Wes said on December 3rd, 2004
Feels harder then Buddha Hole to me. I would say it is 12a and Buddha Hole 11d.
5
Stewy911 said on May 24th, 2005
if the crimp brolke does thatr make it a .12 now
6
chriss said on October 9th, 2005
I agree with wes. Awesome climb.
7
512OW said on January 7th, 2008
After doing this one again, I could go for 12a on it as well.
8
Anonymous said on May 15th, 2009
Much harder than Buddha Hole!
9
dustonian said on October 31st, 2009
Great route... sustained!
10
krampus said on June 7th, 2010
buda hole has a harder crux with a huge rest, ethics police has a much easier crux with a decent rest. Both are some of the best 11ds at the red.
11
vertical1 said on June 28th, 2010
I think the crux on this is much harder than Buddha Hole.
12
dustonian said on July 18th, 2012
heads up for the family of wasps living between last bolt and anchor
13
Anonymous said on April 13th, 2014
definitely agree that it is harder than buddha hole. the crux is pump and i couldn't seem to rest very well after that. awesome line though. I would put it at 12a as well.
14
Chiyram said on April 4th, 2016
Amazing route! Just enough to make you think about the moves you are doing. Not quite mindless jug hauling.
15
Anonymous said on July 27th, 2016
if this is a 12a than everything else on this wall need to go up a grade....it is what it is
16
Sarahbelzile said on October 11th, 2017
The two bolts after pulling out of the hueco felt cruxy to me. Much easier once I worked out the beta. And then I still took a big whip before the last bolt even though I was on jugs, just due to pump! Fun times.
17
Anonymous said on October 11th, 2017
cool story